Peabody's extensive overhaul...

I started working on my Sporty a few weeks ago because I had a few minor maintenance issues to deal with. I still think they are minor issues - most of them, at least. But the process of fixing them has turned into one huge project. And I figure some of the details of what I'm dealing with might be helpful to others. Maybe...

Here's a list of the topics being addressed. I will post more detailed info on each soon, with pictures, when possible.

- Replacing the oil pan due to a leak at the base of the threaded plug hole (bung, if you prefer). My plan was to pull it and weld it. But the sealant was holding it so strong, I bent the <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> out of the right-front corner while trying to pry it loose. So now the plan is "replace". <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

- Replacing the timing belt. The old one is loose. But I only found that one out after investigating a possible leak at the water pump. "Loose, you say?" Yes. So loose that I can hold the section of belt between the cam gears between finger and thumb and deflect it up and down about 1/4" with the same effort it takes to lift the edge of a napkin. The spec in the manual says it should take 20-22 lbs of force. Guess it's time for a new belt... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

- Water pump. It isn't leaking. But I'm in there. And I'll be damned if I'm going through this again to replace a water pump that I should have replaced when I had the chance.

- Oil pump. Yep, I'm swapping that out too because there's a wee-bit of wet oil residue that has seeped past the seal. It's wet enough to make me think it's fresh - not the sludge you find from years of slow accumulation. Again, I'm in there. Might as well get 'er done. And you have to remove the oil pan to pull the pump. Again, I'll be damned if I go back for that later... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

- Radiator. The old one was leaking coolant at from one of the tranny cooling ports. The bottom of the radiator is plastic and I don't think it's worthwhile to try to repair it.

- Front suspension. Yep, I'm rebuilding the front end completely. The upper ball joints were shot and I had lots of busted boots on the other joints. It was more affordable to buy the parts and rebuild it completely than to pay a shop to do the upper ball joints alone. Either way, I still have to get it aligned. Might as well do it all and pay for the alignment one time, versus doing it piece-meal and getting it aligned after each job. My thoughts on it, anyway...

- 4" front lift. My Sporty came with a 3.5" lift (UPYOURKIA). I picked up a 4" lift from Everet to even out the front after beefing up the rear with 106AA springs (aftermarket equivalent). Since I have the entire front suspension pulled, now is a very good time to take care of that.

- Lowering the front diff assembly. I'm not sure it will be done (only 99%). But I have the front diff lowered so I can pull the oil pan (must be done to remove the pan - no way around it). I think it will be very simple to do, requiring minimal parts and labor. I'll post the "how to" on it when I have it figured out.

- Power steering system. I have some leaking around the gear box that might be from the box or the reservoir. So I pulled the whole system so I can clean it up, replace the hoses and improve the mounting of the reservoir after having done a body lift. The reservoir has been attached to nothing but the 2 hoses for as long as I've had my Sporty. And the hoses looked a bit kinked (might me the source of the leak... not sure yet). And since I already had the power steering pump loose after pulling the bracket so I can remove the oil pump (required), it didn't take much effort to drain and pull the whole system. And... it makes it easier to access the front of the engine! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> So why not!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

More to follow... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Post some pictures!!!

Especially of the front diff drop!!

Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Everet - Will do! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Regarding the diff drop, I'm a bit confused about how the Aussie diff drop kit works. As I see it, you only need one shackle, one lengthened bolt and one spacer. That should cover all 3 mounting points. I think a simple drop can be done by moving the mounting position of the left diff mount to the underside of the bracket on the body. You have 2 bushings there - one above and one below the mounting hole on the diff. If you pull the bolt and drop it through the bracket (add a washer to the bolt), you can effectively mount the diff with bushing below. That will drop the diff the distance of 2 bushings (compressed), which I guesstimate to be about 1-1.5 inches. I'll give it a test once I have the oil pan replaced so I can measure the distance and fab up a hanger-type bracket. Adding a spacer and a longer bolt to the far-right mounting point should be easy. That's my plan. I hope to put it to the test soon enough. I took a few pics and will try to post them ASAP.

As for overall progress, I pulled the old timing belt, timing gear, the oil pan baffle (sits between the pan and the crank... bent it while trying to pry it free... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />) and replaced the oil pump. The new pan and baffle arrive tomorrow (figured I should spend the extra $ for the baffle, just in case). So I popped the old pan on with a few bolts to cover the belly of the beast until I have time to get back to it. I did find fresh oil on the crank shaft and the bolt of the timing gear when I pulled it. I don't know if that's normal. I assume not. So it looks like I might have caught that leak before it became a real problem.

That's all for now... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I think the amount of drop you calculated is about right.
The crankshaft seal is the same as the camshafts.
When you put the bolt back in for the timing gear, I used blue Loctite and then torqued it to spec.
Have fun.
Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I made some good progress today. The oil pump is done, as well as the water pump, timing belt and oil pan. I'm in the process of bolting on the rest of the stuff I pulled to get the oil pan off. And I still have the front suspension, power steering and cooling system to wrap up. I also decided to go with a 16" electric fan for the radiator and 2 x 10" fans for the AC. I thought of using another 16" for the AC. But I don't see how it would fit between the front of the body and the core. The main reason I opted to take on the fans was because the body lift had moved the factory AC fan up about 3". So very little of the core was actually getting airflow from the fan. But I can get two small fans in that space. And I think I can fab up some brackets to shift the AC core up a few inches... maybe the radiator core too. I'll post some pics of it, once it's figured out and done.

As for the diff drop, it can be done. But it's not as simple as I though it would be. The plan is good: lower the diff on the left side to mount below the bracket. That measured out to be 1-7/16" with the bushings compressed to the torqued spec (48 ft-lb). The long bolt with spacer will work too. The problem is with the mount on the front of the diff housing. It bolts to a bracket on the cross member. However, when the diff is lowered, the mount hits the cross member and the diff assembly is pushed back about a 1/4" on the right side. It could be made to work. But it would require material to be removed from the housing and/or the cross member. And I'm not in the mood to give that a go. I also realized how much lower the diff will be (visually). I don't know if the mod is worth the loss of clearance... kind of defeats the purpose of the lift. I might look into the aftermarket CV joints I posted on the CV thread. They have better articulation than stock joints. If they aren't too expensive, I might follow through on that, which should do well for our lifted IFS suspensions given that the stock CVs have held up to the 4" lifts without trouble for many modders.

That's all for now...

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Made more progress over the last few weeks, but not done yet, by any means. I just ran into a problem with my front hubs... started a thread on it here.

Diff drop:

Here are some pics of the right front mount and the interference between the bolt and the diff housing. I don't see how it would work without lowering the diff so much, you lose all clearance gained by a suspension lift. It can be lowered. But I don't see the solution being simple...






Electric radiator fan:

I tried mounting the 16" fan to the new radiator using the plastic ties provided with the fan. If you install an electric fan, DO NOT USE THE PLASTIC TIES!!! The weight of the fan is too much for the aluminum fins and the ties will tear them out over time - your fan will drop!!! And after realizing there would be a problem before installing the assembly, I did a bit of homework and found that this is not an uncommon problem, which can cause the radiator to leak from the cooling tubes. You have been warned!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

My solution was to fab a mounting bracket. Here's some pics of what I was able to make using some aluminum scraps I had laying around...






Note on the fan install - I was not able to drop the radiator and fan into place as an assembly. And I was not able to install the fan after installing the radiator UNTIL I removed the thermostat housing. It was a tight fit. And the whole process reinforced my 4-letter vocabulary. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> But It can be done...


Front suspension:

The 4" lift spacers are in and the upper and lower control arms are done. I still have the tie rods, center link and stabilizer bar to install, once I have the hubs sorted out... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

That's all for now. More to come...

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I'm not done yet. But my Sporty is running and I was able to take it out for a road test this evening. Everything feels good. And the engine seems to be running smoother, now that the timing belt isn't off by a tooth! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> I still need to get the front end aligned before I can really put it to the test. But I'm happy with the results! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> The electric fan is working and will come on with the AC. The small AC fan isn't working. So I still need to get that sorted out. And the only leaks I have encountered was a leak at the lower fitting on the power steering reservoir (fixed) and a tranny fluid leak at one of the fittings on the new radiator. I tried to tighten it. But that only slowed the drip. I might have to pull the fitting and see what's going on there. Other than that, all is well... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Time for an update...

I was able to fix the tranny fluid leak. The flared fitting that the hose attaches to had a small split in it. But I was able to use a small amount of black gasket maker in the threads and reinstalled it. Worked like a champ! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> The front end alignment was done soon after my last post. The front end feels much tighter than before. And the engine was definitely running much better with the new timing belt. But...

I had some leaks in the power steering line. The one hose I didn't replace wasn't sealing. It was the hose from the return line off the pump that connects to the hard line running to the reservoir. I replaced the hose and all was well, until I noticed that I still had fluid leaking from somewhere. Turns out the power steering fluid, which was a light tan color, was masking an oil leak. The new oil was the same color. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> And the oil leak was coming from the oil pump... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

I finally had enough time to start pulling everything apart yesterday. And I mean everything! Radiator, AC pump and bracket, PS pump and bracket, thermostat housing, timing assembly, oil pan and lowering the front diff. I also had to lower the cross link to get the oil pan out. I found the easy way to do that was to unbolt the pitman arm so it could hang lower on one side. It took me two days to get it all apart to get the oil pump. Turns out that I rolled the front seal when the pump was installed. It felt fine. But I couldn't see the seal completely. And it was the part that I didn't look at that rolled. I have the new seal and the pump installed. The new seal looks good - no rolls this time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> I'll try to post some pics soon. But it looks like I'm on track to have it done this weekend.

One note: The first time I lowered the diff, I had the front end up on jack stands, supporting the frame so I could rebuild the suspension. This time, I put the jack stands under the lower control arms, because the suspension was not in the scope of the project. Well, I just realized two reasons why you don't want to lower the diff when using the lower control arms as the support points:
- It's much harder to lower the diff because the left side hanger is a pain to maneuver.
- The CV shafts will hit the lower control arm. I split the inner boots on both sides, which I noticed when I observed grease oozing out... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

But I can gimp along with that problem for a little while. It can wait... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

More to come...
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

What did you do to accomplish your diff drop? It looks like you could bolt a hanger(like a spring shackle)on eachside of the bracket and drill a new hole a little higher up on the bracket. If you really wanted to beef it up use angle and bolt the other flange to the cross member.

Howdy lilkia - welcome to the forum! I had to lower the front axle assembly to pull the oil pan. It's the only way to get the front of the pan around the pick up tube. I wasn't lowering the diff as a mod. I apologize for the confusion.

I was able to get everything wrapped up today. The front seal leaks no more and everything else is drip-free too. We'll see how things hold up over the miles. But it's looking very good. And that gets me closer to wheelin!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I still have to figure out what to do with the torn CV boots. I might just leave them and fling grease until they're almost dead, then just replace them. I'm tired of turning wrenches right now. I'd rather be turning up dirt... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> Anyhow, I'll work on posting some pics soon. I think they might be useful for anyone wanting to tackle the timing belt, water pump or oil pump. Man, what a pain in the <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> that front seal turned out to be... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

Memorial Day - Remember to honor the fallen... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Peabody,
Can you clean the CV boots real good with some brake cleaner and then cover the holes with RTV? Just a thought.
Everet
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

That thought did cross my mind. I might try using Rescue Tape to seal the holes. The holes are right on the edge of the boot where the shaft connects to the diff housing and the first articulation groove of the rubber. If I can get the shaft lifted enough to open the groove some, I should be able to get a few wraps of the tape around. I've used the tape for insulating my battery cables. And it seems to hold up well. I'm interested to see how it will hold up to grease and articulation. If it can stand it, then it will definitely be a good product to keep in your gear bag on the trail. I'll let you know how it works, assuming I can get the access to make the wraps... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Also if you can clean it up go to a scuba shop.
They have wet suit repair stuff called .... Aww crap I can't find the can I have.
But it's like a heavy duty black contact cement. Loses it's tackyness after a few hours.
Anyway I've used it on shift boots and such and it has seemed to work good. Had to build up layers though. And the boot was in the house for a couple weeks as I did that.
So maybe not a good solution on a CV, results may vary.
But I thought I'd mention it.

I know I have a cracked one on one side that has flung a bit of grease.
Probably going to just have a new axle on hand though as well as the stuff to do the wheel bearings and such and just do it all at once though once it gives me grief.

i like the mounts you made on the fan. i have been having the same thoughts when i go to do mine. where did you mount the temp switch? i was going to drill/tap into the t-stat housing. one concern i'd have with that is the no fan shroud.

I used a thermal snap switch with the brass probe. The probe is pushed between the fins of the radiator. I mounted mine below the radiator's inlet from the thermostat. The instructions say to mount it where the coolant temp is highest in the radiator. You can see the backside of the switch in the photo of the fan mount. The switch controls power to the relay. The one I used (Amazon link above) came with all of the parts to wire the fan. Because I have dual batteries in my Sporty, I opted to run the fan off the aux battery and powered the snap switch from it too. It allows the fan to run after the ignition is off, which it will do for a few minutes after shutting the engine off on hot days.

As for the shroud, I had concerns too. But the fans of this type all have thin shrouds around them. As long as you mount the fan so the body of the shroud is pressing against the radiator core, it will work fine. The mounting system I used puts a little pressure on the fan when the bolts are tightened up, pressing the fan against the radiator core. I did put the small foam pads that came with fan for mounting between the core and the shroud, just to guard against rubbing, though the mount is pretty sturdy.

My engine actually seems to be running cooler than before. But that was only realized after my old thermostat started to fail, I think because it was sitting dry for a week or two during the upgrade. That manifested in a series of temperature spikes that I attributed to the new fan. When the t-stat eventually got stuck closed, I realized what the problem really was and popped in a new one. Since then, the factory gauge has been sitting at the same old position it ran at with the stock fan, or just below while driving. By the way - that wiring of the fan to run with the ignition off actually saved my <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> when the t-stat failed for good. It pulled the coolant temp down to the normal range a few minutes after the engine was shut off. I've seen the coolant temp rise after cutting an engine because the pump stops circulating the fluid and the heat of the engine is held in place. And my gauge was sitting just below the "H". I was a bit impressed that the fan could still pull heat out of the system with no circulation as quickly as it did. And the temp that day was around 100 F. Anyhoo, so far, so good...

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Quick update - I wrapped the CV boots with rescue tape. It held on one side, but rolled into the first groove on the other. The side that held looks good so far. I took it to a gravel lot and drove around in 4wd, making lots of tight turns. But I didn't have the terrain needed to work the suspension. I think the rescue tape can do the job. I will try wrapping the side that rolled again. This time, I will run the wraps onto the metal base of the shaft, at the axle housing, then throw a hose clamp on it. The tape fuses pretty quick once you stretch it and start to wrap. So I have a good hunch that running the wraps beyond the boot and clamping will hold it all in place. I'll post an update once I am able to put it to the test...

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Nice.
Some of that might have to be obtained for the tool bag.
If nothing else a good trail patch so things don't get worse until it can be fixed.

But if it holds up..... a good "I really don't feel like needing a new axle later or re-booting it right now." fix. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Time for an update...

I have used Rescue Tape to seal off the small slits in the CV boots (inner). And it is holding up. I have no photos to post on this at the moment. But I will work on it. One note on using this sealing tape for this application - I had to use plastic zip ties to hold the "high end" of the tape in place (where the boot clamp sits... it rolled into the valley of the first groove). It held on one boot, but rolled on the other, as noted. So I removed the rolled up tape today and gave it a fresh wrapping, then secured it on the boot clamp with some zip ties. It was an easy field fix. I definitely recommend keep a roll or two of this stuff in your tool bag! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Make over... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

My Sporty's paint job was tired. The clear coat was gone in areas, I had one white fender on a forest green body and the green color was too dark for life in sunny California. So I gave it a "make over" with some rattle-can truck bed liner. I didn't want anything dark. And I found out that Rust-o-leum made the same kind of spray can truck bed line that I had used on the bumpers and tire/cargo rack in TAN!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> Note: My goal was to have a durable paint job that isn't "pretty" (so I won't cry over scuffs and scratches) and can be touched up easy... like with a spray can!

And after a good bit of prep work followed by 24 cans of bed liner, my Sporty looks like this...

Nice job. There's plenty of good pictures in Photobucket that peabody has uploaded. Just click on one of the pictures and it will take you there.