4x4Wire TrailTalk

it's been a while...

Posted By: Dave Scott

it's been a while... - 02/22/15 06:43 AM

Well, in 2008, I got divorced, remarried 3 years later, lived in an apartment for a while, unemployed for a bit, had to sell off all the heavy tools like welders, etc. Had to sell the truck too. Found the guy that bought it selling it again. Was already sold. New buyer did not want to part with it, so, the decision was easy, buy another Sportage. So I did. Needs a bit of work, but I'm doing it now. Body mount bushings were toast, replacing tomorrow. Fan clutch, a/c, tailpipe, thermostat, all toast. Replacing soon. Bought a battery and terminal ends and replaced today. Still need to replace radiator, spark plugs, and a few other things. Seats are terrible, has the vacuum hubs, etc. Just getting it back in good shape first, then we start phase 1. Small lift, tires, manual hubs, etc. Reading over all the posts for lockers, gears, etc. Eventually, I will do another straight axle swap, eventually, I may make more lift kits and bumpers. But for now, just wanna get it running and get a little wheeling in, it's been a while... Way too long...
Posted By: 4runnernomore

Re: it's been a while... - 02/23/15 01:24 PM

Welcome back Dave <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Cheers, Chris <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 02/24/15 01:23 AM

Thanks!

Got the body bushings in, but it was much more work than I thought, so, still gotta do a bunch of other stuff, but it's drivable.
Posted By: Everet

Re: it's been a while... - 02/24/15 05:01 AM

While you were there you should have popped in some 1" spacers and garnered 1" of lift for real cheap.
Hopefully you can start on bumpers soon.
I have several requests for bumpers.
I was able to pick up one of your original ones and get comments on it all the time.
Glad to hear you are doing good and getting back on your feet.
Let me know when bumpers are becoming available.

Everet
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 03/12/15 03:53 AM

Well, this one has been a bit of a trial so far, but that's no different than the first one. Paid too much for it, needs tons of work, mostly cosmetic so far, but have a check engine light too. Also tore one of the 3 little fuel lines that lead up to that weird useless little crimped tube next to the fuel filler pipe. Can I just lose that contraption? Or does it actually serve a purpose? Got a bunch of junk yard parts to fix all the crap that's broken, bent or otherwise messed up and I'm about half way thru swapping the pieces. While pulling parts, I noticed that 75% of the Sportages in the junk yard are in better shape, cosmetically, than the one I bought. Nice. Anyway, still working on getting in good shape before I start buying hubs, welding differentials, buying wheels and tires and making bumpers. Plus other stuff. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: DennisThompson

Re: it's been a while... - 03/13/15 07:00 PM

Dave it's good to see your back and doing well. Good luck with your new ride hope you have fun building it. I sold my Shortage about 3 years ago and bought a Jeep TJ. It took 3 years of collecting parts and about 3 weeks of wrenching but I've got it about where I want it. Hope to see you wheeling it soon.

Dennis
Posted By: Nukeiridium

Re: it's been a while... - 03/14/15 09:21 PM

Good to see you Dave!

Everet, what are bumpers worth these days? I still have a front bumper Dave made but it's sitting gathering dust, not sure if I'm gonna use it. The wife is pregnant, I may not do much wheeling lol...
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 04/09/15 04:00 PM

Ok, so I was thinking about copying the lockers and having them made here in the U.S. Then I thought, I'm getting old, I don't really want to mess with that and it would be nice to support the aftermarket that is already in place. So, in the next couple months, when I get the cash, I will be ordering both the lockers and gears. I may also only stick with the same old 4" suspension lift I used to make and a body lift, but I may not because I really like the Aerostar van coils ride and flex and they will lift the rear about 5.5" so I have to match the front because I hate that rake. Anyway, here's my email from Michael at picorp:

DEAR DAVE,



WE ARE MANY THANKS FOR YOUR E-MAIL WITH INTEREST TO OUR PRODUCTS.

YES, WE CAN SUPPLY THE 5.38 RING & PINION SET AND LOCKER.

*** In case of locker, it need to know a spline....there are 28 spline, 26 spline.

(Please inform us a manufacturing year of your car)



- 5.38 R&P SET (frt + rear) : U$418.00

- COURIER COST : U$127.00

- PAYPAL FEE : U$28.00

===========================

TOTAL : U$573.00



- LOCKER FRONT : U$440.00

- LOCKER REAR : U$440.00

- COURIER COST : U$84.00

- PAYPAL FEE : U$49.00

===========================

TOTAL : U$1013.00





- 5.38 R&P SET (frt + rear) : U$418.00

- LOCKER FRONT : U$440.00

- LOCKER REAR : U$440.00

- COURIER COST : U$174.00

- PAYPAL FEE : U$73.00

===========================

TOTAL : U$1545.00



THANKS.

MICHAEL.
Posted By: Peabody

Re: it's been a while... - 04/10/15 01:14 AM

I've got an OBX Torsen-type LSD for the front axle that works great for me. It's for the Miata and RX7 rear axle. PM me if you're interested. I'll cut you a real good deal...

My 5.38 R&P upgrade thread...

My OBX thread with mods done to the diff...
Posted By: 4runnernomore

Re: it's been a while... - 04/10/15 09:28 AM

Great to here Dave that you are looking at purchasing lockers and gears from Korea
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

The more of us that do the the longer the supply will exist for.

cheers, Chris <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 04/10/15 01:50 PM

Peabody, thx for the offer, I was thinking a locker might be too much for the front shaft and hubs, because I have blown CVs on the old silver Sportage before I swapped the axles, but I think it might have been because I had too much wheel speed, then contact with the ground. Right now I am going to focus on the lockers. If I find I'm breaking CVs a lot, I may switch. And thx Chris, I think that's the better route vs ripping someone off, even though American products are constantly ripped off by that corner of the world, mostly China though...
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 04/13/15 01:24 AM

Picked up Aerostar van coils today at the junkyard. Plus a bunch of other little cosmetic things. But here's my big thing - I tried to pull some window motors, since only one works in my Sportage, and I can't figure out how you can ever get to the bolts holding the regulator to the glass if the thing is stuck with the window all the way up. Any ideas? This is also how my windows are and I will need to know when I go to put NEW window motors in. I swear I have changed them multiple times, in my other 2 Sportages, but just can't figure it out. Oh, and I got a spare tire.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: it's been a while... - 04/13/15 06:42 AM

Just passing thru and wanted to say "Yo" to Dave, Nuke, and the rest of the old gang. It has been a VERY long time and I miss those good times. Unfortunately I have nothing to contribute anymore since I sold the Sportage in 2006. So have a good one and carry on. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 04/13/15 01:43 PM

Nice to hear from you old friend.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 04/17/15 06:31 AM

Ok, so we all know the design and placement of cupholders was never Kia's strong suit. In my ok 95, they were exactly where your elbow should be and in my 2002 and 2000 models, the last of which is my current vehicle, they block the a/c and heat vents, they are weak and bouncy, they are almost always broken in used vehicles and since they're bouncy, their placement is atrocious, both 2000+ models I've had have had soda, coffee and whatever else spilled into the a/c vents, down the center console, into the buttons and switches and into the stereo. Only 2 buttons and 1 function work on the stereo, luckily, the other stuff is so cheap, it would work under water. Anyway, so, long story short - anybody make any custom / home brew solutions for the console issues, like storage and cupholders? Would really like to see something before I just go with one of my two best ideas. One of which is fabricating an entirely new console Tuffy brand style. Thanks for any input.
Posted By: 97sport

Re: it's been a while... - 04/17/15 10:47 PM

Quote
Ok, so we all know the design and placement of cupholders was never Kia's strong suit. In my ok 95, they were exactly where your elbow should be and in my 2002 and 2000 models, the last of which is my current vehicle, they block the a/c and heat vents, they are weak and bouncy, they are almost always broken in used vehicles and since they're bouncy, their placement is atrocious, both 2000+ models I've had have had soda, coffee and whatever else spilled into the a/c vents, down the center console, into the buttons and switches and into the stereo. Only 2 buttons and 1 function work on the stereo, luckily, the other stuff is so cheap, it would work under water. Anyway, so, long story short - anybody make any custom / home brew solutions for the console issues, like storage and cupholders? Would really like to see something before I just go with one of my two best ideas. One of which is fabricating an entirely new console Tuffy brand style. Thanks for any input.


I pulled the complete cup holder tray thing from the dash in my last one, fab'd a filler plate, and mounted my CB and light switches in an opening cut in that filler plate. CB to the passenger side, and switches for lights on the driver's side closest to the steering wheel. Worked awesome, and I'm about to do the same with my newest '97.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 04/18/15 01:36 AM

Cool, I was wondering what to do with the existing cup holder space when I do whatever I'm gonna do for new cupholders.
Posted By: Nukeiridium

Re: it's been a while... - 04/20/15 07:20 PM

But where will you put your cup... or can of beer? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 04/21/15 01:10 AM

In my home brew Tuffy-esque center console. But, I don't drink beer and jack on rocks is difficult to drive around with anyway, so I can wait till I get home. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 09/17/15 02:51 AM

Ok, so, moving along, I still have some issues with the Sportage. Have not been able to fix whatever is wrong with the cooling system. It still pushes out under the radiator cap when driving for more than about 20 minutes. I have a new radiator coming, but I don't know for sure that's the issue. I took it to the shop and they wouldn't test anything until the radiator was replaced, for $600+, so, I'm doing it. This will be the 3rd Sportage radiator I've replaced, or 4th. Then I can test other things to see if that was the problem or not. To the comment made in another thread, yes, I am throwing parts at it, yes, it is more expensive than testing this and that, but I don't really know how or have the patience for testing everything and I can do the labor myself. So, that brings me to another issue - the stereo, or, more specifically, the speakers. I hope someone in here knows some car audio. I swapped the old aftermarket stereo with a Sony xplod, 52w per channel. Now that I have replaced the rig job of speaker wiring, the front speakers sound great and the rears are popping at volume and low end sounds. I figure they are either blown or not powerful enough. I don't know the rms on the speakers since they were already installed, but they are JVC, 100w peak and blue cone. Per Sony, the deck is only 17w per channel rms, that shouldn't make the speakers pop if they weren't blown, right? 100w peak should have at least 50w rms, shouldn't it? Anyway, so I am leaning towards blown. What wattage should I get? 60?-ish? I DO NOT want some crazy sound system, I just want it to sound GOOD loud. Also, as far as mods, ordering lockers, gears, tires, wheels, shocks, brake hoses and front strut spacers in the next 2-3 weeks. Fixing the cooling and stereo problems first. Oh and I had a power drain at one point, turns out it was a dying battery and positive and negative speaker wires wrapped together and touching shorting out. Why I had to redo the audio in the first place...
Posted By: 4x4Wire

Re: it's been a while... - 09/17/15 01:47 PM

Dave.. In general, cooling issues are lack of air flow or lack of fluid flow. Thermostats not opening or closing at proper temperatures can cause overheating issues. They are easy to test by placing it in a pot of water on the stove. Heat the water and watch temperature on a thermometer to see when it opens.

Blockage in the radiator or corroded cooling fins can alter heat disapation. Your new radiator should eliminate that.

Water pump will generally leak first unless the impeller blades are damaged.

Fans are either belt driven or electric. IMHO, belt driven are mechanically more dependable. If your heating is connected with slow speed driving, electrical will provide a more constant air flow. Some vehicles have a variable speed fan clutch that can cause fan rotation issues.

The popping in you speakers indicates a speaker problem or a grounding issue.

When I was into buying stereo stuff, my belief was speakers needed to be double the max output of amp. With 17 watts, I don't believe you will tell a difference between 50 watt and 100 watt speakers unless you compare price...
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 09/20/15 09:56 PM

Well ok, the stereo is rated at 52w per channel, but also says 17w per channel rms. The old speakers in the rear are 100w max, but don't have an rms rating on the label, so, by comparison with other speakers in the same max rating, they are probably only about 30-35w rms. Which is fine at equal fade, but I can't hear them up front like that, so I fade it to the rear and change the settings to have better sound etc. And that's when the rear speakers pop at volume. So, I bought some pioneer 3-ways with 300w max and 50w rms and plugged them in and turned it on. I got real scared for a second cuz all I heard was treble. Then I held the speaker in its mounting position and felt much better. Didn't realize that space acts that much like a speaker box. Ok, so, they sound great and you have to turn it almost to max volume before they start to fuzz or pop. Done with that. Now, the radiator. They called back to refund me. Apparently, the csf copper rad is no longer made. So I ordered the performance brand for 30 bucks more. And 3 rear brake hoses for when I put the springs and spacers on to lift her up.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 09/21/15 01:52 AM

Also... And this one might be a little weird for people that kinda know me on here... I want to put projector headlights on my Sportage. I also own a 2013 Optima and it has them and I like the output and the look, but, and this is the part that is off my character, I want halos... Cuz they look cool. Only. Not because they function better than the headlights I have or any real good reason, but just cuz they look cool. So, I have done a lot of research. I can find a couple brands of retrofit projector lenses. However, they all seem to use an H1 bulb and there is no straight swap adapter. There are adapters for a lot of other swaps, there are HID kits, etc., but I didn't want to have so much wiring and splicing, I just want to plug it in and go. Any ideas?
Posted By: 4x4Wire

Re: it's been a while... - 09/21/15 05:53 AM

Can't help you with that. I did a sealed beam to halogen swap on a Jeep and had to change the connector. Don't know if there is an easy way around wiring other than cut and splice.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 09/22/15 10:24 PM

Then, as I'm doing research on the headlight thing, I start to notice every time I see a 2000+ set of Sportage headlights in an ad, they seem to have a different type of socket for the bulb than I remember my 95 had... Then I realize all the ads for replacement bulbs do not have a listing for 9007s... Then I realize, I changed a headlight bulb in my 2002 Sportage once and it was different and kind of a pain in the @$$... Needless to say, I realized, I have H4 bulbs, not 9007. So, now I'm not sure the retrofit projector will work, but also, I may have an easier time finding a plug adapter. And one last thing. HELLA makes off road only 80w/100w H4 bulbs that just plug right in the stock housing. Awesome. Radiator came today. Hopefully, it's my fix.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 09/23/15 12:47 AM

I spoke too soon. Performance Radiator is $200 of the same ole stock junk. Sending it back. Called Parts train, got them to verify they have an all copper and brass CSF brand radiator in stock and ordered that. So... Waiting again...
Posted By: promodmerc

Re: it's been a while... - 09/23/15 06:06 PM

Originally Posted by Dave Scott
Well ok, the stereo is rated at 52w per channel, but also says 17w per channel rms. The old speakers in the rear are 100w max, but don't have an rms rating on the label, so, by comparison with other speakers in the same max rating, they are probably only about 30-35w rms. Which is fine at equal fade, but I can't hear them up front like that, so I fade it to the rear and change the settings to have better sound etc. And that's when the rear speakers pop at volume. So, I bought some pioneer 3-ways with 300w max and 50w rms and plugged them in and turned it on. I got real scared for a second cuz all I heard was treble. Then I held the speaker in its mounting position and felt much better. Didn't realize that space acts that much like a speaker box. Ok, so, they sound great and you have to turn it almost to max volume before they start to fuzz or pop. Done with that. Now, the radiator. They called back to refund me. Apparently, the csf copper rad is no longer made. So I ordered the performance brand for 30 bucks more. And 3 rear brake hoses for when I put the springs and spacers on to lift her up.


17 watt RMS (root mean square) is the continuous amount each channel puts out. 52 is the max per channel it will put out which typically occurs at higher octaves.

Under driving a speaker (too little power) will cause damage just like over driving (too much power).
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 09/29/15 01:41 AM

Thanks for the info, when I turn on the"loudness" function, it still pushes the speakers beyond what they can handle. It sounds like the drums are trying to turn the cone inside out. I'm guessing, but don't really know, is that switching to less ohms?
Posted By: promodmerc

Re: it's been a while... - 09/29/15 05:18 PM

The loudness adds bass so it is changing the frequency level. The speakers are most likely for high & mid range frequency which is typical of round speakers. 5x7 & 6x9 oval speakers usually handle bass frequencies better.

I would look into getting some bas blockers (they wire inline with the speaker wire) to filter out bass. Crutchfield has them.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 09/29/15 07:55 PM

Ok thx, for now I'll just leave the loudness off, it doesn't really change the quality much.
Posted By: 4runnernomore

Re: it's been a while... - 09/30/15 09:05 AM

Originally Posted by Dave Scott
Then, as I'm doing research on the headlight thing, I start to notice every time I see a 2000+ set of Sportage headlights in an ad, they seem to have a different type of socket for the bulb than I remember my 95 had... Then I realize all the ads for replacement bulbs do not have a listing for 9007s... Then I realize, I changed a headlight bulb in my 2002 Sportage once and it was different and kind of a pain in the @$$... Needless to say, I realized, I have H4 bulbs, not 9007. So, now I'm not sure the retrofit projector will work, but also, I may have an easier time finding a plug adapter. And one last thing. HELLA makes off road only 80w/100w H4 bulbs that just plug right in the stock housing. Awesome. Radiator came today. Hopefully, it's my fix.


Dave,

If you can get them in America, IPF FAT BOY BULBS and upgrade your wiring loom.

We source them from ARB dealerships in Australia usually.

Light output is unbelievable. They are a bit dear though.

Cheers, Chris
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/07/15 03:45 AM

Ok, new problem... Now that I think I have the cooling thing under control, I am starting to get some serious stumbling, loss of power, a little backfiring and general rough running. To be honest, it seems just like when pep boys auto shop installed the sohc water pump on my 95 dohc Sportage. It might explain some of the cooling issues too, but not sure since the water pump seems to be working fine. I have had a check engine light since I bought it in January and it has only had some shakes when it was running pretty warm. So, now with the new radiator installed, new spark plugs, new battery, new thermostat, etc, I can think of a few things that could be causing it. Maybe the fuel filter. Maybe a clogged cat, maybe coil packs, I don't really know too much about what all the electronics attached to the intake do, but I know if you have a crack or hole in a vacuum hose or a dirty ground it can also cause stumbling and similar issues, at least on my 95, it did. Any other ideas before I take it in for a diagnostic?
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/10/15 07:15 PM

Ok so I bought a $50 HF scan tool. This thing is so simple even a Neanderthal like me can use it. I got p0171, p0103 and p0303. Lean fuel, something wrong with the MAF sensor and cylinder 3 misfire. The cylinder 3 misfire? Pretty sure I already know what the problem is - when I changed the spark plugs, I pulled the wire apart and had to mash it all back together. It worked for a while, but it's giving out now. Sine all the wires and coil packs are relatively cheap, I will just replace all of it. Then the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. Then I'll erase the codes, drive it a bit and test it again. Does this sound about right?
Posted By: shorty_sporty

Re: it's been a while... - 10/10/15 10:01 PM

Lean fuel will be a side effect of faulty MAF
Probably not a silly idea to replace fuel filter regardless though.
Coming from a diesel background it is a good idea to replace fuel filter every 2nd service as they are cheap insurance and easy enough to do on the Sportage
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/11/15 02:31 AM

Thanks, that's pretty much exactly what I thought, so I went ahead and ordered the MAF, plug wires and fuel filter. Installing all tomorrow morning. One thing about the fuel filter... My 2002 had some weird clip connectors. I haven't checked what kind are on this 2000 model, but if they're the same, any ideas on how to remove and replace without breaking them? I broke them on my 2002 and had to buy fuel lines and connectors and replace all kinds of stuff.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/11/15 10:39 PM

Ok, so, my brother is a mechanic and told me about the tools to remove the clip connectors on the fuel filter, BUT, AutoZone sold me a USED FILTER! So I got everything else changed, the take off is sluggish. Cleared the codes and drove it for about 70 miles. Got the check engine light again, pulled the codes and still getting the p0171: System too lean bank 1. I don't know what bank 1 means, but I'm hoping it will be fixed with changing the fuel filter and NOT injectors. May also run a fuel injector cleaner through if I keep getting that code after I put the new filter in. Any other ideas?
Posted By: 4x4Wire

Re: it's been a while... - 10/11/15 10:52 PM

I am a frequent user of fuel injector additives. I am partial to the Lucus fuel injector cleaner.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/11/15 11:53 PM

Thx for the tip, I'll check it out.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/12/15 02:45 AM

Question - aren't the a/c controls supposed to be lit? Mine aren't. Also, isn't there supposed to be a headlight symbol in the gauge cluster? I only have the one for hi beams.

And then back to the sound and speaker questions - my stereo has a subwoofer output with RCA/component cable jacks for right and left. It has a separate control for subwoofer volume and sound. Does this mean I don't need an external amp to plug a subwoofer in? I'm not looking for ridiculous bass, just to be able to really hear the low end more clearly. I was thinking about replacing the vinyl upholstered panel across the rear hatch with a plate of tread bright or stainless steel and mounting the speaker in that. Does that sound like a good idea?
Posted By: 4x4Wire

Re: it's been a while... - 10/12/15 01:48 PM

Subwoofers are intended for low range amplification. Within a car, I do not believe you will realize the desired effect due to the smaller space and basic design of a vehicle interior. In a home stereo system, you have room for speaker separation that you don't in a vehicle. Lack of separation reduces overall quality. Also, with the construction material basically metal, I think you would get more echo and vibration.

As for the speaker and panel you intend to replace, the upholstered panel is probably a paper board material. That material provides an sound absorbing effect much like a speaker enclosure. Use of metal would tend to produce echo and vibration.

I think a basic car stereo amp would be sufficient.
Posted By: promodmerc

Re: it's been a while... - 10/12/15 04:20 PM

You will need a separate amp to power a subwoofer. Subwoofers need a lot of power.

If you are looking for a small amount of base look for a self powered subwoofer. They have a built in amp. You will still need to run RCA cables and power wires but not speaker wire.

Self powered subs
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Tn33WjLTaY8/g_51000/Powered-Subwoofers.html
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/13/15 01:37 AM

Ok, basically what I'm looking for is sound quality similar to my 2013 optima, but I can't find any info on the web about what stereo components it has and I really don't want to start taking that one apart too, the wife would have a fit!


And then my next problem. I mentioned I overcharged the a/c system, at least I think I did, those stupid cns with the guages suck. Old one I had worked great, new one sucked. Anyway, the compressor is popping on and off constantly now, making a a think sound and it's not cooling as well as it did before. Is my compressor dying? Or do I need to redo the system charge from scratch?
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/13/15 03:20 PM

Ok on the p0171 code, did a little research, I wasn't wrong for buying a fuel filter, but that code could also mean lots of other things need to be looked at too. So swapped the used filter AutoZone sold me, but haven't put it in yet, got the little $10 plastic tool to remove the filter line clips properly, but per that code, still need to check for vacuum leaks, O2 sensor problem, etc. What the code literally means is that the top O2 sensor is picking up too much oxygen. So, my cat could be bad too, one part at a time. We'll see.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/19/15 03:34 AM

So I got the speaker thing mostly figured out, got another set of the pioneers, turned my eq settings down and the volume up and it all sounds much better now. The a/c hasn't been clunking on and off lately, but it's been cooler weather. Also, the Las warm day, it wasn't cooling as well as it should have been, but today seemed fine, again, its cooler weather, so, difficult to know if there is still an issue or not. I have STILL NOT changed the fuel filter cuz I can't get those stupid clip connectors off the old one. Now my arms are all torn up from the charcoal canister mount and battery tray. I may just take it to the shop just to have them put it in for me.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 10/19/15 03:48 AM

Oh, and a few more changes to my lift and tire plans... I'm changing 2 things... Going to get the strut forks instead of spacers, still using the old Eibach springs in front, still using the Aerostar coils in rear, but going with a 33" tire instead of trying to both fit a 35 and pray that a 35 doesn't have me snapping axles constantly. I ran 32's for a long time on the first Sportage with the smaller rear shafts and fewer splines. I think a 33 will be a better choice for all around use and just the fact that if I ran the 35, I'd have to totally cut and patch all the sheet metal and body mounts behind the front wheels, I think I'll keep it 33 for now...
Posted By: 10ring

Re: it's been a while... - 11/17/15 05:19 PM

I'm up in Austin considering my options with my '99 EX. Your old sporty in your cardomain was awesome.

I don't suppose you know where that truck is now?

Originally Posted by Dave Scott
Ok on the p0171 code...What the code literally means is that the top O2 sensor is picking up too much oxygen.


Just discovered on mine that the exhaust mani was cracked (probably because the exhaust pipe hanger below rusted away), and the gasket leaking at the ends. I'm guessing the crack and bad gasket let in illegal air, tricking the O2 sensor into thinking the exhaust is lean.

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1993-2002-sportage/207377-new-me-4x4-issues-10.html
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 11/29/15 06:15 PM

Well, no, I don't know where it is, I wish I did, it would be less work to fix it than to start from scratch, plus, the last contact I had with the previous owner, he said he sold it to a friend who was not interested in parting with it.
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 01/25/17 04:43 AM

Ok, so, updates, not sure how many of you might also be members of the Facebook page micro monsters, but everything's already posted over there.

First update p0171... It was just a cracked hose on the vacuum line going to the vacuum hubs, located on the back of the intake plenum. Since I already replaced with manuals, I just capped it, ripped all the rest of the system out and erased the code. Gone forever.

Second, I decided to go big or go home, 35's, so it took me a lot longer to get it all done. Sheet metal work, etc.

Put a knock off flowmaster on with 2.25" pipes, built a hidden receiver hitch this past weekend. Previously replaced the intake with aluminum pipe and a k&n.

Total lift: 5.5" in front and6.75" in rear. Unfortunately, the Ford Aerostar coils are taller than I thought. No biggie, worked out great. Also dropped the diff and lanyard. Went with LED headlight bulbs, but I hate them and will eventually still do the projectors, put LED light set into the plastic strip under the headlight, and both diffs are welded vs locked.

I still have a huge list of dodads, but its 90% ready for some real wheeling. 2 years later... Ps, check YouTube. My one and only video upload...
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 01/27/17 09:19 AM

Posted By: 4runnernomore

Re: it's been a while... - 01/27/17 01:28 PM

Nice vid Dave. Wow 5.5 inch in the front how's your upper A arm ball joints. They would be fully maxed out all the time wouldn't they?. Best thing I did to mine was fit the bullbar which gave me some down travel back in the front for when I go over speed bumps etc.

Did the 2 1/4 inch exhaust make much of a difference power wise?. I still have my extractors to fit up ad from turtles description it sound like 2 1/4 is the way to go if we keep the back pressure up
Have you fitted the 5.38's yet. I can't imagine running the 35's it would seem so slow to get moving. My 245's hurt enough now even with the 5.38's.

Look forward to the next instalment.

Cheers, Chris
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: it's been a while... - 01/28/17 06:18 AM

Yep, did the 5.38 gears, the ball joints are nearly maxxed out, but I got a little bit left, I eventually still want the Aussie header, powerwise, the 2.25's are a little seat of the pants grunt, nothing more, the 35s definitely make the transmission work for it.
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