4x4Wire TrailTalk

READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK

Posted By: Axe Man

READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/17/05 05:37 PM

Condition: The green 4WD light is on when in 4H or 4L but there is no power to the front wheels. How come?

Problem: The front hubs are either damaged or not functioning.


Reason 1: If you have a 1995 - 1997 Sportage they came from the factory with Warn low speed automechanical hubs. These hubs wear out over time or may have been damaged due to a high speed shift from 2H to 4H. They were designed to be engaged either from a stop or under 15 MPH. Higher speed engagement will damage them. They also do not hold up well in rough off road conditions and will start disengaging even in 4WD.

Reason 2: If you have a 1998 - 2002 Sportage they came from the factory with "shift on fly" high speed vacuum hubs. With these hubs you could shift from 2H to 4H up to speeds of 50 MPH. It was a great idea but they don't work. The vacuum seals on the back of the hub area is VERY prone to leaking. When there is a vacuum leak the hubs will not engage. Kia attempted to fix this with a "double seal" design on later Sportages. That fix has been inadequate too. Once the vacuum seal is compromised dirt and moisture can enter the hub area and damage the wheel bearings.

Solution: There are 2 versions of hubs available from Warn industries that can be installed on any year Sportage. You can find Warn at http://www.warn.com


Manual Locking Hubs: Warn part number 60247. These are manually locking hubs that you must engage by hand at each wheel whenever you want to use 4WD. Once you shift back to 2H you can unlock them. You CAN leave them locked in while in 2H but fuel mileage will suffer because you are now turning the front axles and front differential. If the hubs are locked in you can "shift on the fly" at high speed. The advantage of these hubs is that they are absolutely bullet proof and reliable. They can take rough off road abuse and you'll always be assured that the 4 wheel drive will work.

Automechanical Locking Hubs: Warn part number 61918. These are a much improved version of the automechancial hubs originally installed on 1995 - 1997 Sportages. They can be engaged at much higher speeds and don't require vacuum for engagement. Disadvantages is that they are more expensive than manual hubs and they cannot take much abuse. They are for light 4 wheel drive duty only.


Installation: Either hub type can be installed on any year Sportage. Warn includes detailed installation instructions including pictures. Simply follow the directions for the ORIGINAL hub type you are removing. No special tools are required however snap ring pliers are helpful. On 1998 - 2002 Sportages there are some additional steps to take after installing the hubs. Remove the vacuum line in each fenderwell. Cut it off at both ends at the strut bracket. Plug the vacuum port on the backside of the hub with a screw and automotive epoxy. The vacuum line that projects into the fender area can be left unplugged. In the engine compartment locate the vacuum solenoid up behind the air filter. Unplug the electrical connector that comes up from underneath and tape it off. The plastic hubcaps on 1998 - 2002 Sportages will not fit over either hub. And you need access to the manual hubs to engage or disengage them. A solution is to slice off the top of the hub cap and then install it. Or leave it off. 1995 - 1997 Sportages have a different style hubcap with a plastic center piece that removes to allow access to the manual hubs.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 11/02/05 03:10 AM

Hello,
I am new to the forums, great article on the vacuum hubs, very helpful. I do have a question though. I am trying to figure out how the vacuum system inherent in the KIA 4WD's work. Right from the switch in the cab, through to the hubs actually engaging. Does anyone have any idea of where to find a diagram etc? Canada Customs isn't agreeing with my contentions that the Vacuum Hub Locks, are part of a vacuum control assembly (that being the swtich, lines, seals, valves etc). Can anyone help with how the whole system works and the parts involved in the vacuum system?
Thanks,
Disgruntled with the Government.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 11/02/05 02:36 PM

Quote
Hello,
I am new to the forums, great article on the vacuum hubs, very helpful. I do have a question though. I am trying to figure out how the vacuum system inherent in the KIA 4WD's work. Right from the switch in the cab, through to the hubs actually engaging. Does anyone have any idea of where to find a diagram etc? Canada Customs isn't agreeing with my contentions that the Vacuum Hub Locks, are part of a vacuum control assembly (that being the swtich, lines, seals, valves etc). Can anyone help with how the whole system works and the parts involved in the vacuum system?
Thanks,
Disgruntled with the Government.


Just behind the air filter assembly is the vacuum soleniod. When you shift to 4H or 4L an electrical signal is sent to the soleniod. It picks and manifold vacuum is applied to the hubs. The hubs then engage which applies power to the front wheels. If you want the diagram I have it. Send me an e-mail at mjats@juno.com
Posted By: mike1

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/10/06 10:38 PM

thanks axe man
i bought my 1999 kia sportage 2 months ago and took it out on a 4x4 day within the first 10 mins i was stuck deep in mud and getting towed out i didnt have a clue why until i found this web site. front hubs didnt lock in because the vac hoses split. i replaced them with fuel injection hoses ( alot thicker ) and all 4 wheels going just the job.
but i will be getting some warn hubs when i can get them imported into this country. one thing i have got to ask can i put bigger tyres on the 15" rimes that came with it, without effecting the suspension cant afford a lift kit just yet, i want the warn hubs first. over here the kia is a "soft off roader" but i want to prove them wrong.
thanks again axe man you helped more than you will know

mike
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/11/06 01:04 AM

Good deal Mike...glad I could help. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> If you can't find Warn hubs in the UK then try AVM. See this link...

http://www.avm.com.br/avm.htm

They also make front hubs for the Sportage and I know they can be purchased in Europe even though they are located in Brazil.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 07/21/06 03:57 AM

Quote
thanks axe man
i bought my 1999 kia sportage 2 months ago and took it out on a 4x4 day within the first 10 mins i was stuck deep in mud and getting towed out i didnt have a clue why until i found this web site. front hubs didnt lock in because the vac hoses split. i replaced them with fuel injection hoses ( alot thicker )....

my problem exactly - great info in this thread. would anyone know where i might be able to get details on how to replace these hoses?

thanks in advance!
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 07/24/06 11:10 PM

Quote
Quote
thanks axe man
i bought my 1999 kia sportage 2 months ago and took it out on a 4x4 day within the first 10 mins i was stuck deep in mud and getting towed out i didnt have a clue why until i found this web site. front hubs didnt lock in because the vac hoses split. i replaced them with fuel injection hoses ( alot thicker )....

my problem exactly - great info in this thread. would anyone know where i might be able to get details on how to replace these hoses?

thanks in advance!



You are better off replacing the hubs as described. Even if you fix the vacuum lines the hubs are still prone to leak at the back of the hub.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 08/12/06 01:28 AM

it's supposed that if I put wheels straight and don't touch the wheel, the car will go straight by itself, but it doesn't, it always goes to the right, and it just alsways wants to go to the right - very hard to drive. Also when I drive on low speeds I can feel that it's shaking.
What can it be ? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Cen_Tex_KIA

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 08/12/06 06:28 PM

1st step is to have you're front end aligned. That will tell you what needs to be replaced if any and correct you're directional problem. 2nd, have all youre tires rebalanced,thats teh most common cause of vibration at speed.
Posted By: turtleskia

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 08/12/06 11:08 PM

vibration at low speeds? could be a loose wheel bearing. just a thought.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 09/01/06 03:57 PM

I have WARN hubs also. Best thing I ever did. I have a 98 Sportge as well. I tried replacing the hoses at first, but continued to have problems. I would be in the middle of a snow storm and the original hubs would kick in and out. Horrible design, that is why they changed it. Unfortunate for some of us, we got stuck with it. It was very easy, took les than an hour to change both sides myself with basic tools. So easy my wife could have done it.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/20/07 05:49 AM

MickeG did you buy manual or automatic hub?
Posted By: LeadBelly

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/14/07 03:59 AM

Does anyone know for certain if early style(96) auto hubs will go on a later(99) KIA?

I have a 99 with malfunctioning vacuum hubs. It is my wife's daily driver and she has no desire to hop out and lock in the hubs when the roads get slick. It never sees any tough situations-just snow/ice.

I also have a 96 with automatic hubs that work flawlessly. I don't mind jumping out to lock in hubs-every 4x4 that I've had until these two have had manual hubs.

So, what I'd like to do is buy a set of warn manual hubs and put on my 96 and take the auto hubs from my 96 and put on my wife's 99, provided that there are no fitment issues.

I suspect that they'll go with no problem, but would like to know for certain before I lay out the bucks for a set of manual hubs. (if they won't, I'll buy a set of warn autos for the 99)

anyone ever done this?

Thanks!
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/14/07 04:29 PM

Quote
Does anyone know for certain if early style(96) auto hubs will go on a later(99) KIA?

I have a 99 with malfunctioning vacuum hubs. It is my wife's daily driver and she has no desire to hop out and lock in the hubs when the roads get slick. It never sees any tough situations-just snow/ice.

I also have a 96 with automatic hubs that work flawlessly. I don't mind jumping out to lock in hubs-every 4x4 that I've had until these two have had manual hubs.

So, what I'd like to do is buy a set of warn manual hubs and put on my 96 and take the auto hubs from my 96 and put on my wife's 99, provided that there are no fitment issues.

I suspect that they'll go with no problem, but would like to know for certain before I lay out the bucks for a set of manual hubs. (if they won't, I'll buy a set of warn autos for the 99)

anyone ever done this?

Thanks!


Yep, they will fit. I had early style hubs on my '98 before converting over to Warn Manuals.

But the older auto hubs are failure prone too. Which is why I went from vacuum hubs to early autos finally to Warns. I highly recommend you go for manual hubs for both your Sportages. Teach wifey how to use them. And they CAN be left locked in while in 2WD if she doesn't want to mess with them.
Posted By: LeadBelly

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/15/07 02:02 AM

Quote


Yep, they will fit. I had early style hubs on my '98 before converting over to Warn Manuals.

But the older auto hubs are failure prone too. Which is why I went from vacuum hubs to early autos finally to Warns. I highly recommend you go for manual hubs for both your Sportages. Teach wifey how to use them. And they CAN be left locked in while in 2WD if she doesn't want to mess with them.


Cool! Thanks for the info.

Wifey knows how to use them, but I can't blame her for not want to squat in a skirt and high heels ankle deep in snow locking her hubs in...(I know she should be wearing sensible shoes, but I'm referring to those unannounced snows we get every so often) The autos have held up to my abuse they should be able to handle her work load. When and if they give out on her then I'll decide on new manuals or autos.

She drives 20+ miles a day so running with the hubs locked in (when no needed) would make a substantial dent in my pocketbook fuelwise. Besides, now I don't have wait until I thrash my auto hubs so I can justify new manual hubs for mine.

Thanks again,

KS
Posted By: bensdad

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/21/07 06:59 PM

This is great info, thanks but I have a question/comment: According to Warn's customer service, the 2002 kia sportage is not supported for the hub part number 60247. Here's the exchange:
[message I left on Warn's web site]
I'm in desperate need of hub parts for my vehicle and Warn is what I'd MUCH prefer to use. Problem is, the parts list in your catalog only includes my vehicle make/model through 2001. To my knowledge, there's no difference between the 2001 and 2002 model years, can you tell me why there's a discrepancy or why the hub part number isn't listed for the 2002 model?

I'd be very willing to provide feedback regarding fit and function if you can provide assurances that if it doesn't fit I can return the parts for a refund.

WARN part number: 60247
Vehicle info: KIA, Sportage - 4 door, 4WD, standard 2 litre 4 cyl DOHC engine.

Thank you

[Warn customer service response]
David,



We have not performed a fit/function test on the later vehicles to determine if it will fit all Kia variations. To our knowledge the 2002 vehicles implemented a vacuum hub assembly and our manual hub will not convert the vacuum style automatic hub wheel end.



Regards,



Aaron Hall

Warn Customer Service

800-543-9276

---------------------------------------------

I still want Warn hubs, really, but I'm concerned about whether or not these will fit correctly.

OK, so here's the question:
Can anyone say for certain that 1)these hubs will fit my 2002 sportage and 2)that there's absolutely no chance my hubs are some kind of non-standard, factory or dealer installed item. They are the auto engage units, there is a vacuum pump under the hood and there is a vacuum line going to the back of the disc brake cover, which I'm assuming connects to the vacuum mechanism.

Granted, 2) may not be fair to ask because no one on this list has seen my car but my concern for this is related to another often discussed topic: 'What wheel size will fit a sportage.' Earlier this year, I took a set of rims off a late 80's half ton Ford 4X4 truck sitting in my father-in-law's field and tried to put one on the front of my sportage. It didn't fit, the center hole was about 1/16th of an inch to small. After searching a junkyard pile of rims for 2+ hours for a ford rim with a larger center hole, what I had was larger than most and as big as anything else I could find (I did find some mismatched, aftermarket 5 spoke wagon wheel style rims with a really large center hole, those would fit gut I don't like the look).

I've had 2 situations where I really needed 4X4, because of heavy snow fall in southeast michigan. Both times they failed. After the first time, I took it to Kia for a warranty repair, which worked. I tested it by finding some sandy mud in a field and gave it a try. Got stuck in 2WD, shifted the transfer case into 4WD and watched the drivers front wheel spin (hanging out the window) while it dug it's way out of the mud - and the drivers tire shouldn't have spun if both hubs were not engaged. The most recent time was just a few weeks ago when we got some signifigant snow, I wound up in a snow bank and had to dig my way out with my window scraper. Believe me, that's a pitiful situation to be in: this close to motor city, driving an import 4X4 and stuck in a little pile of snow.

Sorry for the long winded post but if anyone has comments or suggestions, questions I can answer about whatever, please let me know.

Thanks,

Wanted to make an update:
I bought the car new, in late December of 2002. It's got the 5 speed trans, no aftermarket stuff at all. It had a manufacture date (on the door somewhere) of early '02, like february some time. It has less than 80K miles, it's my commuter car - I drive 80 miles a day, 5 days a week, round trip to work. The exhaust is about to fall off and there's a nasty rattle under the hood right after starting in warm or cold weather, I think it's the clutch fan - probably should take care of that too.

Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/22/07 01:45 AM

Unfortunately the Warn Rep has no idea what he's talking about. Yes, the 2002 Sportage hubs are vacuum operated. So are 1998, 1999, 2000, and 2001. The IDENTICAL arrangement. Absolutely no difference.

Be assured that the Warn manual hubs will fit your 2002.
Posted By: Calappoyas

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/22/07 09:06 AM

As a 2002 owner myself, You'll find many after-market parts lists only go up to 2001. Only difference between the 2002 and the 2001 Sportage is a foot rest for the driver. he he. Manual Hub installs the same.
Posted By: bensdad

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/22/07 01:22 PM

Thanks for the reassurance, now I just need to figure out where to get them. We only had the one real snow, likely won't be another major snow this season so there's probably no hurry now. Since I wrote that, it'll probably snow 2' next week...

I'll see if the local parts store can get them resonably. I found them listed on Amazon.com for a pretty resonable price too.
Posted By: logansportage

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/22/07 11:23 PM

You might try Six States Distributors or a local 4x4 shop.

They will probably not have them in stock, but can easily order them.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: terlay

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 07/10/07 01:22 AM

I just realized my 2000 Sportage 4x4 didn't work last week after getting stuck somewhere where I shouldn't have. From reading all of the previous messages in this forum and many others, I've realized this has probably been broken for awhile, I just didn't know it. My sportage has 99,100 miles on it and when we called the dealer to describe what was happening to the car, he couldn't believe this is the first problem with the 4x4 that we've had.

Anyway, I picked the car up today, and drove about a mile down the road to put gas in the car. When I parked it and cut it off, it started rolling backwards. It was in the park position but wouldn't quit rolling backwards. I re-cranked the car to pull it back up to the gas pump I had been parked at, but it wouldn't go into any gear, but instead made an aweful grinding noise, so I cut it back off. Even after putting the car in park, turning it off, and putting the emergency brake on, it wouldn't quit rolling backwards unless I also held the regular brake.

I got the dealer to send a wrecker to pick us up. They have now told me that when they hooked up the 4x4 after fixing it, that it now has other problems, which will have to be diagnosed and then they will call me and let me know what it is. They said that they could "undo" the work that they had done to fix the 4x4, and I could drive the car until they could figure out what the new problem was and got the parts ordered, which in and of itself does not even make sense.This car has had problem after problem, which I won't go into detail about right now, except to say, every time I've ever had to take this car in for one problem, it always comes back with another more serious one. IF the warranty covered the 1st problem, you can be sure that it will not cover the problem that was created while it was being worked on.

What I'd like to know is what should I expect them to tell me when they call me back tomorrow? This all happened at closing time today, so they said it would be tomorrow before they could give us an idea of what was wrong. I refused to drive the car home, as it is way to close to the warranty running out on the 4x4 in the first place, although the service manager assured me he could "fix" the mileage if I managed to drive over the warranty mileage while waiting on the parts to come in. He also told me to expect that whatever they found wrong with it now, it would not be covered under the same warranty as the 4x4, as it was probably caused by the 4x4 being broken in the first place. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Any advice or suggestions are more than welcome!!!
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 07/10/07 04:07 AM

Quote
I just realized my 2000 Sportage 4x4 didn't work last week after getting stuck somewhere where I shouldn't have. From reading all of the previous messages in this forum and many others, I've realized this has probably been broken for awhile, I just didn't know it. My sportage has 99,100 miles on it and when we called the dealer to describe what was happening to the car, he couldn't believe this is the first problem with the 4x4 that we've had.

Anyway, I picked the car up today, and drove about a mile down the road to put gas in the car. When I parked it and cut it off, it started rolling backwards. It was in the park position but wouldn't quit rolling backwards. I re-cranked the car to pull it back up to the gas pump I had been parked at, but it wouldn't go into any gear, but instead made an aweful grinding noise, so I cut it back off. Even after putting the car in park, turning it off, and putting the emergency brake on, it wouldn't quit rolling backwards unless I also held the regular brake.


It sounds like the transfer case is broken. Question for you. When you picked up the vehicle after the repair was the transfer case in 4H and was the green "4WD" light on? If it was and you drove it on dry pavement chances are you broke the transfer case. You cannot drive a part time 4 wheel drive system in either 4H or 4L on dry pavement. If you do you'll bind the drivetrain and something will break. In your case it sounds like the transfer case gave out. The clue is the inability for the "Park" on the tranny to hold the vehicle in place. The transfer case is located AFTER the transmission and if it blows the park pawl in the tranny won't hold it.

Post back and let us know what they find. I'll lay odds the transfer case is gone.
Posted By: terlay

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 07/10/07 08:37 PM

Quote
Quote
I just realized my 2000 Sportage 4x4 didn't work last week after getting stuck somewhere where I shouldn't have. From reading all of the previous messages in this forum and many others, I've realized this has probably been broken for awhile, I just didn't know it. My sportage has 99,100 miles on it and when we called the dealer to describe what was happening to the car, he couldn't believe this is the first problem with the 4x4 that we've had.

Anyway, I picked the car up today, and drove about a mile down the road to put gas in the car. When I parked it and cut it off, it started rolling backwards. It was in the park position but wouldn't quit rolling backwards. I re-cranked the car to pull it back up to the gas pump I had been parked at, but it wouldn't go into any gear, but instead made an aweful grinding noise, so I cut it back off. Even after putting the car in park, turning it off, and putting the emergency brake on, it wouldn't quit rolling backwards unless I also held the regular brake.


It sounds like the transfer case is broken. Question for you. When you picked up the vehicle after the repair was the transfer case in 4H and was the green "4WD" light on? If it was and you drove it on dry pavement chances are you broke the transfer case. You cannot drive a part time 4 wheel drive system in either 4H or 4L on dry pavement. If you do you'll bind the drivetrain and something will break. In your case it sounds like the transfer case gave out. The clue is the inability for the "Park" on the tranny to hold the vehicle in place. The transfer case is located AFTER the transmission and if it blows the park pawl in the tranny won't hold it.

Post back and let us know what they find. I'll lay odds the transfer case is gone.


I'm still waiting to hear back from the dealership. I can tell you, when I went to pick the car up, the car was parked in the lot, with the hood still up. The service manager just said they forgot to close it. The first thing I did before pulling out of the lot, was to move the 4x4 shifter to make sure that the 4x4 was dis-engaged. I put the 4x4 shifter in 4L and watched for the light to come on, then 4H and watched for the light to come on, and then back off so that the light went off. I have never driven the car in 4x4 before, except when I tried to use it last week and realized it was broken when it wouldn't work.

The service manager did tell us yesterday that sometimes when the vacuum lines to the 4x4 break, trash, grease, etc will get into the lines and cause other problems, which is what he suspects has happened, since I didn't know how long the lines had been broken. If one doesn't use their 4x4, how are you supposed to know it's broken? I live where we get snow and ice, but I've just not been in a situation where I needed the 4x4 before. I sure wish I'd been reading forums on what to expect with this car before now and I'd have had this checked long ago <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: taynriv

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/17/07 07:42 AM

Warning, annoyingly long post...
I am here in a desperate attempt to like my kia sportage... and to stop getting ripped off trying to keep it on the road. I have a 'little' list (sorry)
#1. My 4 wheel drive is NOT working AGAIN, as I discovered tonight when (after a hefty snowfall) it took me 40 minutes to get into my parking spot @ home (after shoveling at work all day) blah. Unfortunately it is not the first time my 4 wheel drive has been out of commision in the middle of a blistery winter, but the other two times the dealer claimed to have "replaced the entire 4 wheel drive system" as it was still under warranty, but never mentioned vacuum hoses or hubs, hm. (I am a girl though ~all sarcastic~ so they love to tell me "ALL KIA's DO THAT" about everything. I don't go to the dealer anymore, grrr, although the thread about the fuel system recall that kia failed to inform me of, almost 2 years ago apparently, has me reconsidering my dealer strike since...
#2- I can smell fuel when I turn on my heater on (awesome) AND it took me like 3 months just to get the air to work on defrost AT ALL (I managed to finally get it to work on floor & defrost so now nobody is allowed to touch the dials!!!)... Back to gas fumes, I now also sometimes hear a hum from the gas cap area when the car is warming up and my mpg is definitely crappy now.
- well there's more (super high idle issue, door lock electrical thing, window 'cabin pressure' thing, check engine light always comes back on, etc.) but that stuff would be pretty off topic for this thread so I'll just say, I DO try to take care of my car but how many jobs does a girl need to have to keep a KIA on the road?
Anyway, I guess I was wondering if anyone knows about how much new hubs run, I checked the warn site... no price list that I saw, and I would love a diagram of the vacuum system since i am probably being dumb now but I think a lot of my recent issues are vacuum related... maybe? I will need to have an mechanic do the work for me but a parts price idea is always good in my attempt to afford 'life'.
Thanks for all these great threads and info... it is very helpfull to see there really are some surviving and even thriving sportages!!! I was ready to go test drive different suv's tomorrow... but you may have swayed me to stick it out a while... I NEED MY 4WD!
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/17/07 03:37 PM

First, the Warn hubs: Advance Auto Parts can order them for you. They should cost about $150 or so. Any competent mechanic can install them in less than an hour. Note: you didn't say what year your Sportage is. If it's a 2002 Warn will say they won't fit. That is incorrect. They WILL fit.

Having the hub vacuum diagram won't help you. The vacuum system IS the reason the hubs don't work. No amount for "fixing" or modifications will fix it permanently. Manual hubs and disabling the vacuum system is the only good repair.

Gas fumes in the heat: The rubber hoses around the fuel pressure regulator are cracked. Again, a competent mechanic can fix that in about 10 minutes. That regulator is on the front of the fuel rail with the injectors. Show him this thread.

High idle: Known problem. Caused by corrosion on the electrical connectors to several sensors. If you do a search in Kia Tech you'll find the repair for this.

Once you fix the above assorted problems then go after the check engine light. Autozone will read codes for free.
Posted By: taynriv

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/18/07 06:12 AM

YAY... there is hope! Thanks so much!!! (It is a 2001 BTW)
I can't wait to have my 4WD back and to be able to be confident it will work when I need it! Kudos! :-)
Posted By: snowboardvdr

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/25/07 06:35 AM

I have a 2001 with vac hubs, i just bought some warn hubs 60247. "should b here in a week. I was informed that i also need to getthe hub, cam assembly, spindle nut, spindle key and spindle. but was told the kit includes everything i need. if i have to get the parts id like to know b 4 i get involved with doing this little project. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: DamKia

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/25/07 07:41 AM

2001 model is simple...undo 6 bolts around old hub, remove hub, slip new hub on and replace bolts (IIRC with new washers under them). No need to jack vehicle up, 10-15 mins each side tops. No need to touch anything else, the Extras that come included are for use in the earlier "semi automatic" mechanical hubs.
Posted By: snowboardvdr

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/26/07 12:55 AM

thanks, i went with the manual cuz i dont mind getting dirty or wet. getting alot of snow here this yr so i need my 4wd. is there anything else i need to get or do also b4 install.. c ya at the mt. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: DamKia

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/26/07 07:36 AM

Absolutely nothing, just remember to disconnect the electrical connector to the vacuum servo. All the instructions come with the hubs.....
Posted By: logansportage

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/27/07 12:07 AM

Put a small bead of RTV around the edge of the hub just before the O ring to seal it against the hub mounting flange. This will help seal out water and dirt. This helps a lot!

Also you will want to pull them off at least once a year to grease them.

You should also do this after any deep water crossing.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: snowboardvdr

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/27/07 01:50 AM

thanks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> i should get them tomorrow. cant wait to get my 4wd back. id like to lift it but maine laws r so strict. ill buy the next round <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> thanks
Posted By: snowboardvdr

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/28/07 12:33 AM

just put them on today. took 30min, the pic on the instructions was small and couldnt tell witch connector to unplug, is it the one on the airbox or somewhare else? is there a prob if i dont disconnect it? works awsome still, good test day we got about 6 more inches of snow. i forgot how it feels to drive with 4wd.. its awsome.. thanks for the input.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/28/07 10:00 PM

Quote
just put them on today. took 30min, the pic on the instructions was small and couldnt tell witch connector to unplug, is it the one on the airbox or somewhare else? is there a prob if i dont disconnect it? works awsome still, good test day we got about 6 more inches of snow. i forgot how it feels to drive with 4wd.. its awsome.. thanks for the input.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


It is important that you disconnect the vacuum solenoid once the manual hubs are installed. This will prevent dirt and water from entering the hub area when in 4H and 4L.

It's a simple operation. Follow the vacuum line from the driver's side fender. It should go up behind the air filter and meet with the vacuum line from the passenger side. At that point you should see the vacuum solenoid with the electrical connector coming up from the bottom. Pull off the connector and tape it back. That's all that's needed.
Posted By: snowboardvdr

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/29/07 06:03 AM

yea i found it, i just followed the line till i found it. i cut the lines to the hubs and pluged the inlet tube also. im gonna do a wheel bearings this spring. mayb a body lift if i can, gotta check the laws first. thanks man <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: shellymac

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/29/07 04:56 PM

Will the manual 4x4 system work on a 2002 2dr, 5sp sportage? I just bought this Kia in June and found out my 4 wheel drive doesn't work. I want to know I have 4 wheeel drive when I lock it in. I'm sick of not knowing if it locked in or not!!!

Shelly
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/30/07 03:45 PM

Quote
Will the manual 4x4 system work on a 2002 2dr, 5sp sportage? I just bought this Kia in June and found out my 4 wheel drive doesn't work. I want to know I have 4 wheeel drive when I lock it in. I'm sick of not knowing if it locked in or not!!!

Shelly


Yes. Was discussed earlier in this thread.
Posted By: SandraK

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/19/08 05:38 AM

Axw Man, Thanks for all your very good information, but my problem is the opposite to all above. I do not need the 4WD more than a couple of times a year, so have not missed it until recently noticing a broken vacume line above RH wheel. Traced it and figured it was for 4WD. Got some new hose and replaced it. Now the thing wants to lock in front wheels when in 2H, with some crunching type noise. Stopped that and experimented with it by rocking car back and forth by hand. With engine off, shafts were stationary. Start motor (gearbox in neutral) and rock, both shafts rotate forward and back as they should in 4WD. Pull new hose off and both shafts stationery. Plug engine end of hose to RH wheel and LH shaft rotates forward and back so LH hub locked in while RH shaft counter rotates so front diff works. With motor running and transfer case in H2, connect hose and can hear hub lock in. I guess the question is - is there a problem with the solenoid, or does the vacume need to be connected in a special way to fix it. Since then, I have been just running RWD with hose off. Any help will be Great. PS, do not really want to change to manual hubs.
Thanks. SandraK
Posted By: brian04151980

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/27/08 09:40 AM

are the warn hubs sold in pairs or do i have to erder two
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/27/08 04:34 PM

Quote
are the warn hubs sold in pairs or do i have to erder two


Sold in pairs.
Posted By: tazitwas

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 02/23/08 06:50 PM

Mine did the same thing. Did you get an answer for this problem? In refreance to the right front hub trying to lock in while driving in 2-high.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/04/08 12:20 AM

Quote
Mine did the same thing. Did you get an answer for this problem? In refreance to the right front hub trying to lock in while driving in 2-high.


Get rid of the vacuum hubs and replace them with manuals as described at the beginning of this thread.

Same fix applies to SandraK.
Posted By: tazitwas

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/16/08 06:43 PM

Thank's axe man. Now the rearend is whining, so as soon as I get that fixed, I'll get the warn locking hubs. Thanks for all the GREAT info. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: 64tbolt

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/28/08 04:10 PM

is there anyway to manually lock the vacuum hubs??? i have one that isnt working. i kinda in a bind right now and cant afford the manual hubs and i NEED the 4X4. thanks
Posted By: jacked86bronco

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/28/08 07:40 PM

Quote
is there anyway to manually lock the vacuum hubs??? i have one that isnt working. i kinda in a bind right now and cant afford the manual hubs and i NEED the 4X4. thanks

Yes you can remove the hub,remove the snap ring from the rear of the hub.remove the gears inside,remove the yellow plastic circle in the bottom(Diaphram)in this spot i used a piece of shop rag to hold the diaphram out wich in returns hold the gears in the locked position.I DID THIS IN A BIND!! i wouldnt recomend doing this for long term use.

http://gearheads.ipbfree.com/index.php?act=idx
Posted By: BiG_MoE

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 08/21/08 03:52 PM

hi all i have read this topic very carefully but i still have a small question??

first of all i have a 2001 2dr kia sportage with about 140,000km on the clock its running in perfect condition but my 4x4 is not workin i get the light and everything so i figured the hubs are broken..

but wen i wanted to order them from warn i coulndt find a warn dealer in dubai and didnt find a place that can ship them so i was just wondering if anyone can help me with this thing send me an adress or a link to a site that can ship me the hubs to Dubai United Arab Emirates..

one more thing can anyone send me a pic of the solinoid that i have to unplug i think i found it but am not quite sure if its the correct one a pic pointing exactly to wat i need to disconnect would be very much appreciated..

thnx all u can reply to me on mounib_moe@live.com
Posted By: daytimerider

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/02/08 02:55 AM

your advice on getting lockuot hubs is a good idea. I have a 2001 sportage. the hub vacuum seals are shot on one wheel, inner and outer bearings and needle bearing. Without that inner seal the same problem will happen again. The Kia retrofit kit is too expensive about $600 per side. My sportage was built between may 16 and july 20,2000. my problem is that i have all the new parts except these vaccuum seals. the dealer is not able to find the correct parts. the seals specified just dont fit. the existing seal is in 2 pieces one fits onto the back side of the knuckle and has to be pressed in. the other piece fits inside the knuckle piece then the half shaft fits into it. the hub piece has a part name forsheda A084032. the manual hub idea is a few years down the road after i take the vehicle tht my daughter has now. i am also wondering if the one seal is a part of the knuckle and they redesignedthe vacuum seal to fit inside the knuckle seal. please help
Posted By: TWS_MN

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/14/08 04:19 AM

I have a 2000 Sportage with a manual trasmission. I've the vacuum line problems too, but here's something new. It had been about two years since my last problem with the hubs so I wasn't surprised when I went to use the 4-wheel and it didn't engage. First I tried replacing the vacuum hubs with the Warn auto mechanicals but this didn't fix the 4 wheel engage problem. Suspecting that I got something wrong or had a bad set, I decide to try the manual hubs. After installing the manuals and locking in the manuals, I took a test drive. When I shifted into either 4H or 4L, the green indicator in dash comes on, but the front wheels are still not engaged. This was confirmed by trying on both dry pavement (a short, low speed turn with no binding which should have happened) and by trying in a low traction situation were only the rear wheels spin. Tomorrow, I plan to jack up the front end and turn one wheel to make sure the other wheel turns in the opposite direction.

My question, what else could cause the transfer case to not supply power to the front wheels?
Posted By: logansportage

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/15/08 08:20 PM

It is possible, but very unlikely that your transfer case in not engaging the front drive shaft. It would be best to put the Sportage up on a lift so all 4 wheels are off the ground and then engaging the transfer case into 4 wheel drive. Then put it into gear and looking under it to make sure the front drive shaft is turning.

More likely is that you have a Frozen Hub.

I have had a couple of times with my front manual hubs when they would turn completely, but not engage on the shaft. It was just compressing the spring and not pushing the coupler onto the shaft. This is referred to as a Frozen Hub. I had to pull them off, clean them, and then relube them. Then it worked.

I recommend pulling them off at least once a year and cleaning then relubing them just to make sure this doesn't happen.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: jack

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/28/08 02:52 AM

Great info on the warn hubs...will get some asap. I had the truck up on stands and engaged the 4wd. The passenger side shaft was turning out of the differential, but the hub would not engage. Problem is, on the drivers side the shaft did not even turn. I just bought the truck and suspect the 4wd was never used. Any suggestions on this shaft issue?
Posted By: BAZINGA

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/03/09 06:06 AM

try this forum. copy and paste it into your browser

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post1132597
Posted By: logansportage

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/05/09 11:31 PM

The front end has a differential in it meaning that the torque will be transferred to the wheel with the least amount of resistance. Basically if the left side is stopped or has more pressure against it, the power will be sent to the right side and turn that drive shaft.

My suspicion is that the vacuum hubs you have are not engaging completely because they are dirty, or the seal is torn. This is a known problem with the Sportage and the Warn manual hubs address it. You still have the differential action that will occur unless you put a traction aid in the front like a LSD (Limited Slip Differential) or locker of some kind.

The rear end of the Sportage works in the exact same way unless you have the LSD in it.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: pamom1991

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/11/09 05:08 PM

LOUD THUD??
Yesterday the hubby and I installed the manual hubs on my '98. 4WD hasn't worked since I bought it 4+ years ago. (I didn't know it when I bought it! It was summer. Didn't find out until the first big snow and got stuck in the driveway!) We changed them out with no problems; just took a little time to figure it all out. Found the driver's side clip had the end broke off. (we'll be replacing it today) Drove it in 4L around the yard and up a little hill, no sound. Then we drove it on the wet/slushy road in 4H, had a loud thud every few seconds in first 2 gears. The sound stopped in higher gears. Switched out of 4wd and the sound stopped. We were thinking it may be from not being in 4wd for many years? Or is the broken clip allowing it to slip in and out?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Posted By: shawnwh

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/12/09 02:16 AM

Hello, I recently bought a 1999 Kia Sportage & found out that the 4wd donesn't work. I got stuck in the snow today in my driveway. I'm pretty sure that they were working before. I get the light and all of that but, my rear tires just spin. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> By reading this forum I was just wondering should I go with manual hubs or auto. How do you lock in manual hubs as I have never had a 4wd vehicle until now. Got a good deal on the car & I really do like it. Where I live at the 4wd is the reason I got the car. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> How hard is it to change? I'm not much of a mechanic so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!!!!!!!
Posted By: pamom1991

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/12/09 06:47 AM

Although I am no mechanic, I have read A LOT of posts about hubs here and on other forums. Most Sportage people recommend the manual hubs as they are tough as nails and fairly easy to install. I ordered manual hubs from Clemson 4 Wheel, who handles the Warn hubs. My husband and I put the manual hubs on in about an hour with only minimal tools. The directions come with the hubs but I had trouble figuring out the installation. I was trying to make it harder than it was. (I usually read the directions and he does the work!) I'm sure anyone on this site could explain the procedure to you. The 4wd light will come on when you engage the gear lever but most likely the vacuum seals to the hubs are worn out and will not hold. After installing the manual hubs, you must turn them outside the car at each wheel and then you still need to shift the 4wd gear inside the car.
The website for Clemson is www.clemson4wheel.com. They were the most reasonably priced. I paid $161 total with 2 day air shipping. Hope this helps.
Posted By: Skydiver

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/20/09 11:20 PM

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> Thanks for all of this great info you guys ... and girls !!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Back-story and a couple questions ::

My mother has a 1998 Sportage and I'm very interested in getting the Warn 61918 Automatic Locking Hubs.

I didn't see much info about them here, mostly about the manuals. My mother demands auto hubs so the mans are 100% out of the question here. She owned a 4x4 F-150 that had mans but recently she refused to put up with them.

The last time the OEMs went bad, (about 2 years ago), she took it to the dealer, (I didn't know till recent), they charged her like $1500 USD for the new hubs and related vacuum repairs. Everything is once again shot, ugh.

The Questions ::

Are these hubs sold in PAIRS ?
I see online prices range about $210 - $250 but never mention packaging.

Is there any modification(s) I need to do... other than the vacuum line/solenoid ?
If so, can you please link it, thank you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />



Thanks again y'all <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: jaboo5322

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/21/09 12:14 AM

Whichever you decide to go with, they are priced as a pair.
Depending on year, you might have to change spindle bearing nut. Which is supplied. Warn gives you everthing you need to do this. That is one thing to be said about warn. It's all in the box baby. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Everet

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/21/09 02:34 AM

Here's some on ebay you could get maybe for less. Warn Automatic hubs
You should be able to get them for less than $200 I would hope.
Otherwise, check out Amazon.com for best pricing.
Oh, I think you just block the vacuum lines. Do a search on this forum, you should come up with some good information.
Good Luck,
Everet
Posted By: fokion

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/21/09 07:14 AM

dont mess with automatics
they will fail again eventualy
I have changed 2 sets before I settle for manuals=end of story...
Posted By: Everet

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/21/09 02:21 PM

But if you put in Warn, they will have a lifetime warranty, unlike the Kia ones. I doubt that his mom will use them as hard as you did!!! I think that auction ends pretty soon too.
Everet
Posted By: Skydiver

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/25/09 11:27 AM


Thank you for the replies. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Yea, my mother demands auto-hubs. Used only to get out of our driveway and to work on snowy days.


I missed that auction ... It ended at only $152 USD !!! wow.

I'm now going to order a set in about 3 weeks.

Great info guys !
Posted By: 2002_Sporty

Hub Bolt Size? - 02/25/09 01:38 AM

Does anyone know off hand the Hub Bolt size. I don't know how to measure them and the shop can't find the specs on them anywhere. I don't want to have to pay for someone to measure. I don't have my tools either.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Shown in item 16 [Linked Image] .
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: Hub Bolt Size? - 02/25/09 02:44 AM

Quote
Does anyone know off hand the Hub Bolt size. I don't know how to measure them and the shop can't find the specs on them anywhere. I don't want to have to pay for someone to measure. I don't have my tools either.
Any help would be much appreciated.


As I recall they are a unique size and have to be obtained at a dealer. But if you remove one and take it to a well stocked hardware store you may get lucky.
Posted By: Everet

Re: Hub Bolt Size? - 02/25/09 03:13 AM

If you want to know what size socket to remove them, use a 10mm socket (six point if possible). If you need to know length and thread, let me know and I'll take one off tomorrow and measure it at work if I'm in good condition because tonight is Fat Tuesday of Mardi Gras, and my wife is French, so a celebration is on and we will be having a few Hurricanes!!!<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

AS THEY SAY IN LOUISIANA...LAISSEZ LES BON TEMES ROULEZ..."let the good times roll"
Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: 2002_Sporty

Re: Hub Bolt Size? - 02/26/09 11:14 AM

Everet,

I know your buisy but if you ever get a chance to get the dimentions on that bolt it would help a million. The KIA dealership is more ignorant than I. Thanks sir.
Posted By: bombardj1

Re: Hub Bolt Size? - 02/26/09 03:38 PM

sporty why nut just buy the dealer bolts ? they should not be over $2 each, part # is 0k01133206A this comes out of a 2000 catalog but fits years 1997-2001, anything I can help on with numbers I will.

John
Posted By: 2002_Sporty

Re: Hub Bolt Size? - 02/27/09 06:12 AM

John,

Thanks for the advice. I was trying to avoid the order. It takes over two weeks to get parts up here to Fairbanks Alaska. I can't wait that long to get back into the deep snow trails (Cabin Fever). And I don't like risking my rig when its got a sore spot. I have compulsive orders when it comes too my Sportage. Safety first in this weather.
Posted By: kiaz

Re: Hub Bolt Size? - 03/01/09 08:22 PM

I broke 2 of these bolts removing the vacuum hubs on my 2001. Oddly enough, the local "parts" store had the right thread and length bolt in stock, (had to take one in to compare, as Axe recommended) only without the 10mm flange head (they were 12mm regular). Long story short, a thin wall 12 point socket fit, the bolts were all of $2.37, and the hubs haven't fallen off yet. I also bathed the length of the bolts in never-seize so hopefully I'll never have to go through that again.
I like to think a lack of new parts is an invitation to improvise.
Cheers!
Posted By: 2002_Sporty

Re: Hub Bolt Size? - 03/02/09 02:04 PM

Thanks Man, I appreciate the info. Will hit up the local gear and driveline store tommorrow for the bolts and hit the trails ASAP <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.
Posted By: ChrisB

hubs - 03/21/09 02:19 AM

hey guys i got a 01 sportage 4d 5sp the hubs dont lock in.I noticed the hubs have a small warn logo in between two of the bolt holes.Did they come stock like that?
Posted By: ChrisB

Re: hubs - 04/05/09 07:00 PM

My warn 60247's should be in tuesday <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.Then its wheeling time. Im so sick of this thing getting stuck because the 4x4 didnt work before.
Posted By: ChrisB

Re: hubs - 04/08/09 04:14 AM

They just arrived.They are already on the car.4 wheel drive actually works now.Will test them in the wash tomarow.What kind of grease should i put inside them? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: 2002_Sporty

Re: hubs - 05/07/09 01:52 AM

This is a pic of the Warn Manual Hub. The center of the hubcap is drilled out for easy access.

http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww39/2002Sporty/2002Sportage3.jpg?t=1241657258
http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww39/2002Sporty/2002Sportage4.jpg?t=1241657097
Posted By: budicexxx

Re: hubs - 07/01/09 01:42 PM

just wondering if the vacuum lines that go to the hubs is the line that comes out were the brake line comes out at the wheel well.
Posted By: budicexxx

Re: hubs - 07/07/09 10:20 PM

just wondering what might be the problem is when i put my transfer case in 2High that the shaft from transfer case to the front diff. still turns...what might be my problem.
Posted By: budicexxx

Re: hubs - 07/07/09 11:15 PM

also just pulled off one front hub....is it normal to have play when i move the end of the shaft in the front rotor assenbly.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: hubs - 07/08/09 09:22 PM

Quote
just wondering if the vacuum lines that go to the hubs is the line that comes out were the brake line comes out at the wheel well.


Yes, and if you follow the vacuum line it goes to a fitting on the back of the hub.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: hubs - 07/08/09 09:27 PM

Quote
just wondering what might be the problem is when i put my transfer case in 2High that the shaft from transfer case to the front diff. still turns...what might be my problem.


With the transfer case in 2H the front driveshaft should be free and not turn. With the vehicle on the ground crawl underneath and try to turn the shaft. It may be hard to turn but it SHOULD turn. If it doesn't there's a chance that a hub is frozen in the engaged position.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: hubs - 07/08/09 09:28 PM

Quote
also just pulled off one front hub....is it normal to have play when i move the end of the shaft in the front rotor assenbly.


There should be some play but I don't recall how much.
Posted By: budicexxx

Re: hubs - 07/09/09 01:23 AM

Quote
Quote
just wondering what might be the problem is when i put my transfer case in 2High that the shaft from transfer case to the front diff. still turns...what might be my problem.


With the transfer case in 2H the front driveshaft should be free and not turn. With the vehicle on the ground crawl underneath and try to turn the shaft. It may be hard to turn but it SHOULD turn. If it doesn't there's a chance that a hub is frozen in the engaged position.

K so i just crawled under and the shaft only turns maybe quarter turn and then wants to turn the front diff. So this means that one or both of the hubs are stuck. Hmmmm
Posted By: budicexxx

Re: hubs - 07/09/09 03:14 PM

Quote
Quote
just wondering if the vacuum lines that go to the hubs is the line that comes out were the brake line comes out at the wheel well.


Yes, and if you follow the vacuum line it goes to a fitting on the back of the hub.

WEll im puzzeld. I check and the vacum lines that come out from the inner fender are blocked off Wish a rubber cap. So does this mean my hubs were modified to always be engaged.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: hubs - 07/09/09 04:30 PM

Quote
Quote
Quote
just wondering if the vacuum lines that go to the hubs is the line that comes out were the brake line comes out at the wheel well.


Yes, and if you follow the vacuum line it goes to a fitting on the back of the hub.

WEll im puzzeld. I check and the vacum lines that come out from the inner fender are blocked off Wish a rubber cap. So does this mean my hubs were modified to always be engaged.


It just dawned on me. You are in Canada. Kia Canada eliminated the vacuum hubs and installed Warn 61918 hubs as a campaign to fix the vacuum hub issues. It appears that one of your hubs is locked in. Try backing up about 10 feet a few times and see if it unlocks. If not you'll have to find out which hub won't unlock.

It is also possible that someone figured out how to permanently lock the vacuum hubs.
Posted By: budicexxx

Re: hubs - 07/10/09 09:04 PM

any suggestions once i find out what hub it is. Can i take apart and grease or clean is..ect.
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: hubs - 07/10/09 11:23 PM

Quote
any suggestions once i find out what hub it is. Can i take apart and grease or clean is..ect.


Not sure. I have no direct experience with those type of hubs.
Posted By: budicexxx

Re: hubs - 07/16/09 12:24 PM

well i went and picked up some manual hubs yesterday. Installed last night and wow it solved my problem....No more noise in front end and my shaft is free.... smile
Posted By: Hydra747

Re: hubs - 10/11/09 09:13 PM

Got a fairly new transfer case. Here's the deal:

I have an automatic transmission...When I shift IN or OUT of 4L while moving (in N or drive) faster than 5 miles per hr. I hear the gears grind! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I have to come to almost a complete stop before I can shift and only then it engages without incident.

What could be wrong?

Thanks,
Mikey
Posted By: Hydra747

Re: hubs - 10/11/09 09:58 PM

Good Resource for general info of 4x4 part time, full time, AWD, 4x6, 4x8 ETC: <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />






web page


....And Lockers too....
Posted By: Axe Man

Re: hubs - 10/11/09 11:38 PM

Quote
Got a fairly new transfer case. Here's the deal:

I have an automatic transmission...When I shift IN or OUT of 4L while moving (in N or drive) faster than 5 miles per hr. I hear the gears grind! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I have to come to almost a complete stop before I can shift and only then it engages without incident.

What could be wrong?

Thanks,
Mikey



Nothing is wrong. The gears in the transfer case are sliding gears and have no syncros. You must be at a complete stop before shifting into or out of 4L.
Posted By: Hydra747

Re: hubs - 10/11/09 11:45 PM

Thanks AXEMAN!

Boy do I feel like a DumbArse Now!
Not sure but my 98 did not do this....but maybe it did!
Thanks Mike! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Kia_Bill

Re: hubs - 12/21/09 03:22 AM

Hey guys. Just like many of you, I hardly use the 4W on my 02 Sportage and after yesterday's 24" of snow I found out today that my 4W-drive is out. I have no clue how long it's been out but it's been some time I'd wager.

I'm thinking of getting the autolocking hubs from Warn to replace the stock ones. Couple of questions first though?

I get how manual locking works, but how does automatic work without the vac-hoses? Does the diff start turning the axles and the hubs just lock in step, or is it something else that I'm missing here?

Is there a warranty on the parts themselves or do I have to buy from Warn to get the warranty? I don't want these blowing up on me and forking out money for another set. I want them replaced if at all possible.

Thanks!
Posted By: londart

Re: hubs - 12/21/09 06:53 AM

from what i understand,yes they are centrifugal(sp?) and check with your local warn distributor but they should cover any warranty issue even without a receipt,they will get their credit back from warn so they shouldnt have a problem honoring the lifetime warranty...if interested i do still have a brand new set that i am not using...price is right just pm me if interested <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Kia_Bill

Re: hubs - 12/21/09 10:17 PM

Ok, the more I read up on these the more I'm shying away from autos. I guess I don't quite understand the mechanics of locking the fronts and driving around in 2WD until you need to pop it down in 4WD. Is that possible, or would I break something really bad?

Plus, I really don't want to have to back up some 10-15 feet to get the autos to disengage, but that leads me back to my previous question of what if I just take the car out of 4WD will it roll forward without any issue?
Posted By: jaboo5322

Re: hubs - 12/21/09 11:28 PM

I had the warn autos first after my vacs went out. Which i think were allready bad when i got it from the dealership. They worked great for the first sommer, but as i got more ballsy, they started to fail. They rely on a cam fixed to wheel hub, and when the axle spins forward, or back, the outer hub cam nubs spin against the inner, forcing the outer outward to lock the hub. I think nylon, and pot mettle. Go with the manual. Also very fun if you want to prove how far you can go in two low. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Kia_Bill

Re: hubs - 12/22/09 01:25 AM

I talked to the guys at Warn and I think I'm going with the autos. I don't do any off-roading and aside from snow and ice, I don't use the 4WD any other time.
Posted By: jaboo5322

Re: hubs - 12/22/09 03:29 AM

Probably would be great for that. I got into some big hills, and crawled through a creek with rocks tall enough to smack the undercarrige. Then went through a culvert and back again. Didn't break then, but i'm sure put the ware on going back and forth navigating through the rocks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: 2002_Sporty

Re: hubs - 12/23/09 09:52 AM

I don't understand why you do not choose to go with the manual hubs. If you really don't use your rig in 4x4 mode that often, then it shouldn't be a big deal to jump out and turn them. I've heard to many problems with the other type of hubs. If I have to get out and turn them on, then I know their on. Plus their really inexpensive for the manuals. I put them on myself in no time at all, and I'm not mechanically inclined.
I got the manuals, cause I know they will work if I got to sell the Sporty. Heaven forbid. She's my baby...
Posted By: xeepwccs

Re: 4x4 - 12/28/09 04:06 AM

i just bought a 99 kia sportage and have the 4wd shift lever instead of the push button now do the same vacume problems happen with this type? I have the auto hubs and wouldnt mind going to manual. Okay i can put the lever into 4wd while sitting still and in nuetral (its a 5 speed) but can not shift on the fly. im a jeep guy and tryed all my tricks and still cant get it if anyone could help let me know thanks
Posted By: londart

Re: 4x4 - 12/28/09 07:01 AM

there are no push buttons, they are all shift lever on the 1st gen at least....as far as the shift on the fly, i'm not sure, i can shift from 2 to 4hi on the fly with no problems but you have to be stopped completly to go from 4hi to 4lo...thats the way they are designed to work...if youre having probs shifting on the fly from 2 to 4hi maybe someone else can help you that knows a lil more about them <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: KIAkrawler

Re: hubs - 06/06/10 11:17 PM

did you guys know that stock manual locking hubs off a mazda b2600i 4x4 fit kia's perfectly! same bolt pattern and spline count. I just pulled the studs out and bolted them on. they are aisin and much stronger than warns garbage aftermarket ones and look better too.
Posted By: Everet

Re: hubs - 06/06/10 11:47 PM

What year of b 2600?

Post some pics too!

Everet
Posted By: lytning

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/03/11 10:38 PM

Where does this electric to the solonoid come from?
The solonoids on my 2001 kia are not the same. Also the one on the passenger side has a vacuum line that seems to go to the back of the truck and then coming back to the hub. The line will not hold a vacuum Where does this line go, and what does it do?
Posted By: DavidM

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/10/11 07:21 PM

Ok, I know it was mentioned earlier, but I never saw anyone really address this issue. Now I'm having it.

Front right suddenly starts pulling. Sounds like its randomly locking. I'm ordering the manual hubs right now.

Problem is, this is the only daily driver we have at the moment. Would it hurt anything if I just gutted the hub and drove it like that? Just long enough for the new hubs to get here? Or will it tear itself up like that?

Also, there is a tiny bit of play in the wheel bearing. still spins nice and smooth though. Is it normal to have a little play on these?
Posted By: logansportage

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/10/11 09:37 PM

Might be easier if you just disconnected the vacuum line up in the engine bay. That way if you go through a puddle crap doesn't get sucked in the line or make its way down inside the hub from the exposed end if you pull it off at the top of the knuckle.

If you can feel the tiny bit of play with your wheel on the ground then you will probably need to tighten them when you install the Warn manuals. If you feel the play when the wheel is off the ground then it might be OK, but you should still check it with a pull gage when you are installing the Warn manuals.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: DavidM

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/10/11 10:00 PM

Quote
Might be easier if you just disconnected the vacuum line up in the engine bay. That way if you go through a puddle crap doesn't get sucked in the line or make its way down inside the hub from the exposed end if you pull it off at the top of the knuckle.

If you can feel the tiny bit of play with your wheel on the ground then you will probably need to tighten them when you install the Warn manuals. If you feel the play when the wheel is off the ground then it might be OK, but you should still check it with a pull gage when you are installing the Warn manuals.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


Cool. I unplugged the vac solenoid in the engine bay, and gutted the right side hub. Seems to have fixed the problem....*crossed fingers*

The play was with the wheel in the air. Barely any play on the ground. Might be time soon. But I seriously doubt the bearing was the problem this time. Unless its failing differently than I've ever dealt with before.

Do those bearings get pressed in?
Posted By: logansportage

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 01/10/11 10:28 PM

No, but the race does. There is one other bearing in the front end you will want to check when you have it open. Check the spindle bearing. The last time I pulled mine open and checked it, it was completely rusted over. I ended up having to cut it out, clean it out to bare metal again and replace the spindle bearing. This is the bearing the axle shaft rides on. It's only used when your front axle shaft is rotating, so it doesn't see a lot of use 90% of the time. However, it really kills your mileage when you put it in 4wd because you are rubbing the axle shaft against a frozen bearing. This causes a lot of ware and could end up causing the need to replace the axle. To really check it you have to pop the knuckle completely off. This involves popping off the tie rod ends and separating the knuckle from the lower ball joint. Please keep in mind typically when you do this you end up having to replace the lower ball joint and the tie rod end. So to simple test the bearing, with the wheel off and everything else removed down to the point where there is nothing left on the knuckle, spin the front axle shaft by hand and feel if there is a lot of drag. This way you donít have to pop off the tie rod end or the lower ball joint. If there is a log of drag or a lot of play side to side/up to down, you probably need to replace this bearing. If it rotates easily and has very little play, the bearing is probably still good.

When you put on the Warn manuals, you may want to put a cap on the inlet pipe in the knuckle to keep water and other contamination from getting down inside to ruin this bearing. I replaced my hubs with Warnís a while ago and didnít cap off this vacuum inlet and over time moisture/water got down in there and killed the bearing.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Peabody

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/17/11 03:37 AM

I just pulled apart my passenger-side knuckle and found the needle bearings buried in rust, brake dust and mummified-grease. I went looking on-line for replacement bearings and the inner seals. It wasn't a very straight-forward task. I had to call the Kia dealer to get the part numbers because no one - not even Rock Auto - had the bearings or seals listed for my '97. After I had Kia's part numbers, I was able to cross-reference both the bearings and seals to aftermarket MFGs. The part numbers for both follow (just to spare others the pain and suffering I went through for 2 hours <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />)...

Front Knuckle/Spindle needle bearing (supports CV half-shaft):

Kia #0K01133152 (cross refs in Napa catalog)

SCE188 (cross refs with many bearing manufacturers)

Edit: Also found this one...
FAG Front Wheel Bearing, part #KIA027559



Inner seal (inner-side of knuckle):

Kia Part #0K08133065 (cross-refs in Napa catalog)

Beck-Arnley # 0523996 (1-piece)

Auto 7 (2-piece seal - everyone else is 1-piece):
Part # 1260010 + Part # 1260031

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: DennisThompson

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/17/11 09:18 PM

Good info, when you get all your bearings and hubs squared away just remember to pull them apart at least once a year and clean and regrease everything to prevent it from happening again. Almost 200,000 miles on mine with regular maintance and no hub or bearing problems.

Dennis
Posted By: 4x4troy

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/06/12 01:15 AM

ok i have a problem....i have warn manual hubs and 4x4 does not work....any ideas?
Posted By: Peabody

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/06/12 03:11 AM

I have noticed that my Sporty will not engage the transfer case unless I shift into 4wd with the transmission in neutral (mine is an automatic). The "shift on the fly" doesn't work, perhaps because the vacuum system that engages the automatic hubs is disabled. But shifting from neutral does the job, on my rig, at least...
Posted By: 4x4troy

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/06/12 03:59 AM

mine is a 5 spd., and i have the manual hubs....and it still won't engage 4wd...goes in 2wd low but front tires do not spin at all. i need to check and see if front ds spins in 4x4.
Posted By: 4x4troy

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/06/12 08:17 PM

this is the hubs i have. i lock them in and put it in gear and in 4x4 and the front axles do not move...they are locked in. but the front tires do not spin. do ya'll think my hubs could be bad?

[Linked Image]
Posted By: Peabody

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/06/12 10:07 PM

The hub locks may be stuck and unable to engage. That can happen if the grease is gunked up or gone. They are easy to disassemble. Just remove the 6 bolts (10 mm) and pull the locking mechanism to have a look inside. If I recall correctly, there's a flat snap-ring inside that retains the guts and spring. They are very simple. If the grease looks fouled (assuming it's still there), you might want to look at the hub and wheel bearings. Hope that helps... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: 4x4troy

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/06/12 10:10 PM

thanks, i will check that out
Posted By: 4x4troy

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 06/14/12 08:57 PM

repacked the hubs and 4x4 works great now...thanks a bunch
Posted By: axl498

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 05/13/13 02:00 AM

I have a 2001 Kia Sportage my wife bought new and I'm trying to turn it into a little 4wd toy. After replacing some of the wheel bearings, due to a lovely grinding noise that developed, I put it up on jacks to check on the 4WD. Only the right front and rear wheels spun. So, I'm wondering if this is normal for the sportage or not. I tried finding information about the kia's drive train and differentials, but I didn't have much luck. Anybody have any opinion or advice? I will be installing the Warn manual locking hubs in the future, but I would like to know if the front differential is working correctly or if I need to tear that apart too. Thanks for any help. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: homerdog

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 05/20/13 07:33 PM

Quote
I have a 2001 Kia Sportage my wife bought new and I'm trying to turn it into a little 4wd toy. After replacing some of the wheel bearings, due to a lovely grinding noise that developed, I put it up on jacks to check on the 4WD. Only the right front and rear wheels spun. So, I'm wondering if this is normal for the sportage or not. I tried finding information about the kia's drive train and differentials, but I didn't have much luck. Anybody have any opinion or advice? I will be installing the Warn manual locking hubs in the future, but I would like to know if the front differential is working correctly or if I need to tear that apart too. Thanks for any help. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />


There may be a vacuum leak on the side not working. I'd put on the Warn hubs first and go from there. Of course once you put on the Warm hubs the vacuum issue goes away.
Posted By: Vigbert

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/03/14 04:28 PM

Just want to thank all responsible for this thread! I bought an '02 last summer. When I "tested" the 4WD on the dry pavement (I have other 4WD vehicles, so I did slow, sharp turns in both 4WD modes) it seemed to work.

Of course, the first time I needed it this winter, no go. My research led me here. I ordered the WARN manual hubs via Amazon, they arrived in 3 days, and, once I realized I didn't need to do anything other than remove the 6 bolts and swap parts (my originals hubs are the vacuum-assist automatics), the procedure took less than 15 mins! I spent more time trying to find my snap-out pliers (that weren't even needed because the snap ring stays put) than swapping the hubs!

It was the least effort/difficulty for greatest improvement of a vehicle I've ever done! So, thanks again! I suggest everyone do this very easy procedure and never again worry about your 4WD engaging. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: axl498

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/04/14 02:00 AM

So, both front wheels should spin with it lifted? It's not some sort of limited slip thing? Still planning on installing locking hubs, it's just that "life happened" as it sometimes will and I haven't gotten around to it.
Posted By: Peabody

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/04/14 06:14 AM

Both the front and rear diffs have open carriers on most stock Sporties. Some of the rear axles came with clutch LSDs. But I think most were special order or came with an upper-end package. That said, the open carriers only transfer power to one wheel on the axle. So I think the stock configuration is 4 wheel drive with 2 wheels pushin'. But I could be wrong... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: axl498

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/06/14 05:14 PM

I did a search for locking hubs for my 2001 sportage and some non-Warn stuff came up along with the Warn stuff. Has anybody tried any brands other than Warn and does the 4wd on the kia really make any difference when it is working properly? I'm moving to a snowy climate and even though the snow season is coming to a close I'm curious if the warn locking hubs will make enough difference to warrant installing them? Basically, is the 4wd in the kia worth a damn when it's working or if I install the locking hubs am I just going to get one more wheel spinning in the front in addition to the back that already spins every time it snows.
Posted By: Tommychu

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/09/14 05:17 PM

It's an open front diff (as Peabody just said) so if you're really stuck and you mash the fun pedal you'll have one-wheel peels on both axles. But it does make a huge difference anyway.
The "other" ones look like Chinese junk to me. If you want something cheaper than the Warns, hit the boneyards and find a 4x4 Mazda B-truck (one of the brick-shaped ones before they turned them into a Ranger with upside-down taillights), the manual hubs on those are a direct bolt-on if you have the awful vacuum hubs, though you have to swap the axle nut and retainer if you have the centrifugals.
Posted By: axl498

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/12/14 10:17 PM

I just bought the warn locking hubs on amazon and they should be here Monday. Hopefully, the install will go as easy as everyone says and I will get some more traction in the snow. Thanks to everyone for their advice.
Posted By: Vigbert

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 04/19/14 01:40 PM

If anyone is interested, I'm selling a set of the WARN manual lockers that I recently put on my 2002. (Not sure if this is the proper place to post this. Mod. please advise). See my post here on previous page.

My Sporty has died and I'm trading it in. These hubs have been locked in for literally less than 500 ft. When I installed them, the only snow was in the yard, so I drove it around there to test them and they worked fine. Of course, there has been no snow here since then.

I'll sell them for $75 for the set. PM me. Thanks.
Posted By: Everet

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 04/19/14 02:47 PM

Vigbert,
I'm interested in buying your hubs.
I'll pm you
Thanks,
Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: Van

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/03/14 10:50 PM

Question for those of you with Warn manual locking hubs.

Even though I own an Isuzu, I'm always on the lookout at the junk yards for manual locking hubs, doesn't matter what type of vehicle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I found a pair of Warn hubs on a '99 Sportage that I salvaged and before I put them up for sale, I would like to know if the retainer ring is required or just the hub and 6 bolts? Pictured is what I got. Thanks in advance for any advice. Edit, won't let me upload an attch.

Van <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Attached picture 1295512-Warn1.jpg
Posted By: kiaracer

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/09/14 05:35 PM

Just the hub is necessary. I bought a Warn kit for my 98 and it came with all that stuff but all this is really required is the hub. Everything else is the same.
Posted By: Van

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 12/15/14 09:43 AM

Quote
Just the hub is necessary. I bought a Warn kit for my 98 and it came with all that stuff but all this is really required is the hub. Everything else is the same.


Thanks for the information. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Van <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Posted By: ultim8m

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/04/15 03:48 AM

Maybe a stupid question. i just got avm hubs today, from what i gather the install is pretty simple. Do i need to get grease and grease the hubs or anything? it isn't mentioned anywhere in the instructions
Posted By: Peabody

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/04/15 06:08 AM

The hubs should already be greased inside from the factory. I would spread some grease on the inside of the splines if they are dry. Other than that, it should be a simple, bolt-on application...

And a word of caution from my own error - don't get any kind of form-a-gasket or RTV sealant inside the thread holes if you elect to use such a sealant between the hub and the locking body. I discovered the hard way that those compounds expand or outgas when heated. If that happens inside the bolt hole, which is effectively sealed by the bolt and the sealant, it will cause the hub body to bulge exactly where the outer wheel bearing race sits. And that, as I can tell you from experience, will deform the bearing race and destroy the bearing. I had to replace both hubs and wheel bearings because of that - a pricey lesson learned. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> Here's proof...
Posted By: ultim8m

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 03/04/15 03:11 PM

Hmmm my 1999 had cam type locking hubs. I wonder if the hubs have been swapped to older model hubs. or the car is really a 97 with a plate swap
Posted By: Dave Scott

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 04/21/15 01:35 AM

Ok, I know many years ago this question was answered, but at the time, I paid no attention because I either had manual hubs already, my Sportage wasn't a vacuum hub equipped model, or I had the straight axle already. Now I have a vacuum hub model and I just got a set of manual hubs. Gonna swap them tomorrow night and my big question is - how do I completely and permanently remove all traces of the vacuum hub equipment? I don't want it unplugged, I want it gone. Can I seal where the hose originally attached to the spindle? Can I plug the vacuum port from the intake (I'm assuming that's where it takes vacuum from)? Can I totally remove the actuator? Etc. I have worked on my old Sportage extensively, but, as mentioned, never experienced vacuum hubs. Thanks.
Posted By: tspot

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK - 05/24/15 05:38 PM

Ok so Ill start by saying I have the non-vacuum style automatic locking hubs. They are the centrifugal style warn automatic locking hubs.

When I first got the sporty they would lock/unlock properly it seemed. after a while i noticed I would have to back up to get them to fully unlock and i never noticed that I had to do that before. I wasn't sure if this was how they were supposed to work. so I pulled the hub off and cleaned and re greased it. now just 2 days ago I think the hub is trying to lock itself in. but only seems to do this after I have reversed. So if i back out of a parking spot then start driving forward it seems normal. until about 40km/h or so then i can hear it whining like its trying to lock in. so if i slow back down at about 10km/h BANG it will pop out and stay out. until the next time I reverse. I pulled the hub off the wheel again and looked and I cant see any major evident problems. I put a little more grease on everything and took it for a drive and it made th whining noise but there was no bang this time. then it just went away. could it have been just not enough grease? I liked these hubs until now. for the past 3 months I have been at a job site with a lot of sand. so the hubs have been getting a workout in 4x4 all day until i leave the site.
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