1992 Trooper 4x4 shaft/hub separated.. Newbie in Layton, UT asking help...

Hey all. As a newbie, I've searched the posts exhaustively, and with that said, I still want your expertise -- thank you in advance for the help.

My daily drive is a 1992 Trooper 4x4 V6 w/ 208k miles. Runs well, passes emissions... The other day heard a pop, now with the 20" of snow we had... I couldn't get outta the driveway! 4WD wasn't engaging, but making noise. Crawled under the rig (in my suit, not thinking, win) and saw that the driver-side axle shaft was out of the hub/wheel and would spin... Looks like i lost a snap ring, and the "race" came out of the "cage" - new terms to me! Of course the bearings and cage are nowhere to be seen.... See the attachment for the pic.

So questions:

1) there's much debate on replacing the outer axle (so as not to drop the diff) - is this doable with a part from AutoZone or O'Rielly?

2) Anyone in the SLC, Utah area that wants to make a buck? We just dropped $800 on my wife's car, I can't afford to take it into a shop. I'd supply parts, a helping hand that doesn't mind getting dirty, food/drinks and some $$....

Any info would be great. I can't keep driving my mom's New Beetle for obvious reasons. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Any and all advice appreciated...

Troop is up on jackstands in my garage. Tire off, ready to go if stars align. Found a nice step-by-step with pics.

So, are the parts from Autozone/O'Rielly going to cut it?

I have always used salvage yard factory parts for outer swaps, have had no problems doing do. You can search car-part.com to find some, you need from a 92-94 Trooper to get the right length.

I also have heard of aftermarket CVs that are specifically made for replacing only the outer, presumably with the right ball pattern to match the inner etc., but I have not tried these. Don't get an entire aftermarket CV axle, because they often will use whatever joint design they feel like, so it probably wouldn't match up with your factory cup.

Yeah.... I'm gonna just take it in I think. Can't get the steering tie to come loose, when I try to jack up the control arms to align, Troop lifts off lift jacks. And it's 42 deg in my garage. Guess I'll eat the $700.

**EDIT**

I sucked it up and took a space heater out.. Took the pitman arm puller to the steering tie and scared myself silly when it finally popped - though Troop was coming down on me! Of the three, the upper control arm was the worst... wouldn't release from the spindle without serious force...

Everything is cut away, removed, cleaned and prepped. Both ball joints were split, so putting in new ones for that too. So, the end is near -- here's hoping the part i ordered from O'Rielly is the right one...

I have always left the steering in place. By moving the steering back and forth (helps to have a second person do this) you can uncover access to the front bracket bolts...it's a bit of a pain, but not as big a PITA as trying to remove that pitman arm, that sucker is ON there.

I'm going by two How-To writeups that I found online (one here, one elsewhere) and they both said to remove it just to have easier access to everything.

I'm wondering if I'm going to be able to get the lower ball joint component off - the bolts hardly look like they're there, though that was last night about 11pm when things were pretty sleepy/fuzzy. Light of day will help out with that.

Thus far I've invested about $120 in tools (some i needed anyway) and the $75 for the new CV, and $85 for both ball joints, for a total of $280. Much better than the $700+ a few shops quoted me.

Sure, nothing wrong with removing the steering because it does make dropping the axle easier (especially if you are working by yourself), just saying it is not absolutely mandatory.

What are you trying to remove the lower ball joint from, the spindle or the lower control arm?

When I posted that it was the spindle, but tonight it will be from the control arm. I've lubed everything up with PB, so here's hoping it'll break free pretty easy. Both of my control arms had severly cracked boots...

So apart from that lower ball joint, tonight will the the "re-assemble" night. The new CV is in and looks awesome, and is the right fit! Was so relieved to open the box and see a twin (albeit shiny) to the old one.

UGH! Stupid cheap CV clamps suck. They don't hold tight at all. If i can wiggle it, it isn't doing it's job.

Any idea where I can get a good, solid CV clamp? Not the "pull and bend" type... Ruined two already....

You talking about for the boots? No...I just use zip ties <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

That's awesome! I'd actually thought of that - I have a pack of heavy-duty, UV resistant 175lb load zip ties... How well do they hold up?

I've never had one come off...I've only done the inner boot on the cup though, never tried it on the outer boot.

Although, why do you have to mess with that? Aren't those shiny new CVs assembled already?

I'm just replacing from the cup out, and the axle didn't come with a clamp for the boot-to-cup portion. Everything else is clamped/greased and ready to go.

OK I see I misunderstood what you are doing, I thought you said you were removing the pittman arm so I assumed you were dropping the whole axle assembly...but you were just using a pittman puller on the tie rods. So what I said about keeping the steering etc. is not applicable. And you obviously do have to disconnect the tie rods either way.

Yeah, I've been working on it just a few hours each evening for the past three days. Today will finish off the rebuild (with zip ties most likely!) and should hopefully go smoothly. Now that I've done it once, I bet I could do that in and hour, tops.

Done! Finished up yesterday, only hiccup came when getting the bolt on the tie rod (steering).... Thankfully I could get it on kinda and took it to the shop up the road - no charge to tighten it down.

Nice to have my rig back!

Thanks everyone for the support and advice!