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| Replacing the CV joints in your Grand Cherokee | Short Cuts | ||||
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By: Paul Boyd - 6/2000
Upgrade Procedure
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| 36mm nut and retainer.
photo by: Paul Boyd |
1) Block rear wheel to prevent movement.
2) Using the 1/2" breaker bar, 3" extension and 18mm socket, break all lug nuts free (both front tires).
3) Using the floor jack (or Hi-Lift), raise the driver's side front wheel high enough to place a jack stand under the axle.
4) Repeat on passenger's side.
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| Cotter pin and retainer removed.
photo by: Paul Boyd |
5) Remove lug nuts and wheels (both sides).
6) Using needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin that interlocks with the 36mm
nut retainer (1 each side). Note: If care is taken, the cotter pin can be reused during reassembly.
7) Remove 36mm Nut Retainer (1 each side).
8) Remove wave washer (located between the 36mm Nut and 36mm Nut Retainer)
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| Breaker bar on nut.
photo by: Paul Boyd |
9) Using the 1/2" drive breaker bar, 3" extension and 36mm socket, loosen axle nut (1 each side).
Note: If there is no one to keep the brake pedal depressed (to keep the front wheels from turning while loosening axle nuts) you can also use a piece of wood (1" x 4" x 20" is what I used) to help out. Drape a towel over one end of the board and hold it against the bottom of the driver's seat. Hold other end of the board against the brake pedal while moving driver's seat forward.
This will allow one person to break the nuts free while the brakes are being held. Remember to move the seat back once you are done to avoid leaving the brake lights on through the rest of the install.
10) Make sure to do BOTH the driver's and passenger's side before removing the brake
calipers....you will need both calipers on, and functional, in order to use the brakes to hold the axles while loosening the 36mm nuts.
11) Remove 36mm axle nut and washer.
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| Second pair of legs.
photo by: Paul Boyd |
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| 36mm nut coming off.
photo by: Paul Boyd |
12) Using the 1/2" drive ratchet with a 1/2" 12 point socket (6 point is OK here), loosen the 2 bolts holding the caliper.
13) Remove the caliper from each side and using heavy gage wire, hang the caliper from either the coil or the shock.
NEVER let the caliper simply hang by the brake hose.
14) Remove the rotor from each side (these will slide off once the calipers are removed)
15) Liberally apply Penetrating Oil to the bolts holding the hub on (3 bolts per hub).
16) Lightly tap the heads of the hub bolts, this causes vibration which helps the oil penetrate (well, that's what I've always been told!!)
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| Caliper hanger.
photo by: Paul Boyd |
17) Wait 10-15 minutes to allow penetrating oil to work, this is a good time to unpack your new shafts (and grab a smoke and/or a beer)
18) Using the 1/2" breaker bar with a 1/2" 12 point (MUST be 12 point for these) socket, remove hub bolts (3/side)
Note: these bolts were tight and stayed very snug the whole time (also were long!)....would've been a good time to have an air ratchet!!!
19) After all hub bolts are removed, you're ready to remove the hubs from the front end.
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| Spray hub with WD-40
photo by: Paul Boyd |
20) Liberally spray (see picture) edge of hub with penetrating oil....this is a fairly tight fit into the mating part.
21) Using the hammer, tap on hub.
22) I used a cold chisel to break the hub free. Once a gap between the hub and mating surface is seen, use either the chisel or a screwdriver to pry the hub free. The guard (behind the hub) will come off with the hub. Take note of the orientation of the guard (makes reassembly easier!).
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| Damaged CV joint.
photo by: Paul Boyd |
23) Remove the axle shaft (driver and passenger side).
| Contacts: | Related Links: |
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