Changing the Lower Intake Plenum on a 1995 Montero SR with 3.5L DOHC Short Cuts

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By: Richard Myatt, 01/14/04 Edited by: Phil Hansford


Changing the Induction Control Valve Assembly (Lower Plenum) on a 6G74 engine is a challenging undertaking but I was also surprised that it was relatively straightforward. You will need to have some automotive mechanical experience to do this job, and hopefully this article will help. This article is split into 3 parts: tools/spare parts list, the procedure used and lessons learned.
I have to say that the following procedure worked for me but I cannot guarantee your success. I had a lot of excellent advice from other folks on the forum, and they will no doubt be able to provide you with advice, if required.

To start off I need to set some conditions:

- The vehicle I was working on was a US model, left-hand drive, 1995 Montero SR with the 6G74 3.5L DOHC engine and V4AW3 automatic transmission.
- Left and right are always as viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
- All part names and all torque wrench values are taken from the Chilton's Mitsubishi Pick-ups and Montero 1983-95 Repair Manual, and are given in ft lbs and (Nm). Chilton references are provided in the following format: [Page No, Figure No]
- Photographic references are in the following format: {Pic #}, Annotation, and are clickable, or available at the end of the article.
- As well as changing the lower plenum, I also changed the spark plugs, spark plug cables and did a compression test. The paragraphs of the procedure covering only these additional tasks are marked with *, so you can skip these steps if necessary.
- All major wiring harness connections have some form of locking mechanism, whether it is a plastic latch or a metal spring clip - use your common sense to determine how to make these disconnections.
- Procedure is written for novices, so experienced mechanics may find some parts rather elementary.

Tools List:

Parts list
Parts Referenced In this Article

10mm Deep Socket
12mm Deep Socket
14mm Socket
12mm Box End Wrench
Medium sized Phillips Head Screwdriver
Small Inspection Mirror
Small Pry Bar
Torque Wrench (Low Range, e.g. 5-80 ft lbs)
Flexible Joint for Sockets
A good assortment of drive extension bars, ratchets, etc
Arc-Joint/Slip-Joint Wrench

Parts List

MD335940 - Induction Control Valve Assembly (1 @ US$365.77)
MD300483 - Intake Manifold Plenum Gasket (1 @ US$10.11)
MD307582 - Induction Control Valve Gasket, Secondary (1 @ US$9.62)
MD307583 - Induction Control Valve Gasket, Primary (1 @ US$12.59)
MD184662 - Throttle Body Gasket (1 @ US$5.82)
MD149764 - EGR Pipe Gasket (2 @ US$4.90 each)
*MD311208 - Spark Plug Cable Set (1 @ US$97.88)
*MD361067 - Spark Plug (6 @ US$13.33 each)

The Procedure:

*1. Start the vehicle and let the engine heat up to operating temperature. This is to give a more representative compression test later - see Para 45.


2. Remove the Intake Manifold Plenum Cover - 5 x 10mm bolts; 2 long in rear, 3 short in front & middle. On reinstallation torque all bolts to 8 ft lbs (8Nm).


3. Disconnect air hose - 1 x Screw clamp.
{Pic 2, Green Arrow}
4. Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors from the Throttle Body (Throttle Position Sensor (Upper) and Idle Speed Control Servo (Lower)). A "Zip Clip" connects the wiring harness to the air intake pipe. If the Zip Clip is original Mitsubishi you can undo it, else cut the old clip. On reinstallation, you will see that the 2 connectors are distinctly different and cannot be reconnected to the wrong terminal - reconnect/ replace the Zip Clip. {Pic 2, Pic 4, Dark Blue Arrows}
5. Disconnect the electrical connection from the Air Intake Hose, Volume Air Flow Sensor. {Pic 2, Red Arrow}
6. Disconnect the breather pipe from the rear of the Air Intake Hose. {{Pic 5, Pic 12, Pic 13, Orange Arrow}
7. Unclip Air Intake Hose from Air Filter Box, and remove Air Intake Hose. Remove Air Filter to prevent accidental damage.


8. Remove the Throttle Cable Bracket - 2 x 10mm bolts. Couldn't get accurate torque for reinstallation so used 8 ft lbs (8Nm).
{Pic 3, Red Arrows} [3-57, Fig 69]
9. Disconnect Throttle Cable from Throttle Body {Pic 4, Red Arrow} and detach the cable from the metal clip bolted to the top left of the plenum
{Pic 13, Green Arrow}
10. Mark the location {Pic 4, Purple Arrow} of the Accelerator Cable Bracket and then remove it - 2 x 10mm bolts {Pic 3, Green Arrows}. Couldn't get accurate torque for reinstallation so used 8 ft lbs (8Nm).
[3-57, Fig 69]
11. Disconnect Accelerator Cable from Throttle Body.
{Pic 4, Green Arrow}
12. Disconnect Vacuum Hose "A" from "P"-connection on Throttle Body. The other end of this pipe is connected to metal Vacuum Pipe "A", which is bolted to the top of the plenum. This vacuum hose has a RED stripe.
{Pic 3, Pic 6, Dark Blue Arrows}
13. Disconnect the vacuum hose from left-hand end of Vacuum Pipe "A". This vaccum pipe has a RED stripe.
{Pic 11, Red Arrow}
14. Disconnect vacuum hose (Throttle Body Pipe Bracket to EGR Valve) from connection on pipe bolted to Throttle Body. This vacuum hose has a GREEN stripe.
{Pic 3, Pic 6, Yellow Arrows
15. Remove Throttle Body, there is no need to disconnect the 2 water pipes. 5 x 12mm bolts - 4 long (through throttle body casting into plenum) and 1 short (through right-middle plenum stay bracket into throttle body casting {Pic 4, Orange Arrow}). Discard old gasket and suspend Throttle Body safely out of the way
{Pic 5, Pic 12, Green Arrow}. On reinstallation, replace Throttle Body Gasket and torque all bolts to 8 ft lbs (12Nm).


16. The EGR pipe is located on the right side of the engine, below the throttle body, and is secured at the top and bottom by 2 x 12mm bolts. It also has a bracket halfway along it length. I only disconnected the upper end. Remove and discard the gasket. On reinstallation a new gasket can easily be slipped into the joint and then torque the 2 bolts to 13 ft lbs (18Nm).
{Pic 5 Red Arrows}


17. Disconnect Part 1 of Vacuum Hose "B" from the Intake Plenum. Part 1 of Vacuum Hose "B" connects the intake plenum to the "B"-connection on the vacuum tank. The vacuum tank is a small white plastic tank on the upper right side of the engine, between the Power Steering Pump and the Throttle Body {Pic 2, Light Blue Arrow}, it is held in place by a simple spring clip. This vacuum hose has no stripe.
{Pic 2, Pic 3, Purple Arrow & Pic 6, Red Arrow}
18. Disconnect Part 2 of Vacuum Hose "B" from Vacuum Pipe "B". Part 2 of Vacuum Hose "B" connects Vacuum Pipe "B" (bolted to the front of the plenum just in front of the electrical connections for the coolant temperature) to vacuum tank connection-"A". This vacuum hose has a WHITE stripe.
{Pic 3, White Arrow & Pic 6, Green Arrow}
19. Unclip and remove the vacuum tank. The vacuum tank should still have the 2 vacuum hoses connected to it.
20. Disconnect Part 3 of Vacuum Hose "B" from the Vacuum Pipe "B". Part 3 of this hose connects Vacuum Pipe "B" (bolted to the front of the plenum just in front of the electrical connections for the coolant temperature) to the Variable Induction Control Solenoid (bolted to the front left of the plenum). This long vacuum hose has a WHITE stripe.
{Pic 7, Red Arrow}
21. Disconnect Part 4 of Vacuum Hose "B" from the Variable Induction Control Vacuum Servo. Part 4 of this hose connects the Variable Induction Control Solenoid (bolted to the front of the plenum) to the Vacuum Servo (bolted to the front of the Induction Control Valve Assembly). This short vacuum hose has a YELLOW stripe.
{Pic 7, Green Arrow}
22. Disconnect the electrical connection to the Variable Induction Control Solenoid and remove 1 x 12mm bolt, holding the solenoid to the plenum. Remove the solenoid with the 2 vacuum hoses attached. On reassembly, torque this bolt to 14ft lbs (19Nm) and then reconnect the electrical connector.
{Pic 7 Dark Blue Arrow}
23. On the right side of the firewall, loosen the spring clip and disconnect the large diameter Vacuum Hose that goes from the metal pipe attached to the firewall to the rear-right of the plenum. This pipe provides vacuum to the Master Cylinder Servo and has no stripe. Do not disconnect from the plenum.
{Pic 2 & Pic 13, White Arrow}
24. Disconnect the Vacuum Hose from the right-side rear corner of the plenum. This hose connects to a small diameter metal pipe attached to the firewall and has no stripe.
{Pic 5, Pic 12 & Pic 13, Yellow Arrow}
25. Disconnect the Vacuum Hose from the back of the plenum on the right-hand side. This hose connects the plenum to the Fuel Pressure Regulator and has a LIGHT BLUE stripe.
{Pic 5, Pic 12 & Pic 13, Purple Arrow}


26. The majority of engine control harness connections are designed so that they can only be connected in the correct position. I did not label any of these and had no difficulty in reconnecting them - you may wish to err on the side of caution.
a. Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit (small electrical connection from right hand temp sensor in front of the plenum). Connector has single YELLOW/BLUE wire.
{Pic 7, Yellow Arrow}
b. Disconnect the Thermo Switch (small electrical connection from left hand temp sensor in front of the plenum). Connector has single BLUE/WHITE wire.
{Pic 7, Purple Arrow}
c. Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (larger electrical connection at front of the plenum behind, and to the right of, the smaller connections (above)). Connector has two wires - GREEN/YELLOW wire and BLACK wire.
{Pic 7, White Arrow}
d. Disconnect Crankshaft Position Sensor from Double Connector Block bolted to the top-front of the plenum. Crankshaft Position Sensor is the BLACK connector on the left, and the connection pulls off to the rear.
{Pic 8, Red Arrow}
e. Disconnect the Camshaft Position Sensor from the Double Connector Block bolted to the top-front of the plenum. Camshaft Position Sensor is the GREY connector on the right, and again the connection pulls off to the rear.
{Pic 8, Green Arrow}
f. Disconnect the Power Transistor to Engine Control Unit Connector (small flat connector at front-left of the Ignition Power Transistor).
{Pic 8 & Pic 11, Dark Blue Arrow}
g. Disconnect the Power Transistor to Ignition Coils Connector (large flat connector at the rear-left of the Ignition Power Transistor).
{Pic 8 & Pic 11, Yellow Arrow}
h. Disconnect the EGR Temperature Connector (right-hand connection of the Triple Connector Block bolted to the top-rear of the plenum). The connection pulls off towards the front. {Pic 8, Purple Arrow}
i. Disconnect the Engine Control Unit to Fuel Injector Connector (the middle connection of the Triple Connector Block bolted to the top-rear of the plenum). This connection also pulls off towards the front.
{Pic 8, White Arrow}
j. Disconnect the left-hand connection of the Triple Connector Block bolted to the top-rear of the plenum - I could not identify this connector. Again, this connection pulls off towards the front.
{Pic 8, Light Blue Arrow}
k. Disconnect the Power Steering Pressure Switch connector from the right-side of the Power Steering Pump (Single BLUE/WHITE wire with bullet style connector). This wire is Zip Clipped (if possible undo this, else cut & replace) to the Power Steering Hose, and is also secured by a metal cable tie down on the top-front edge of the right-hand Valve Cover.
{Pic 2, Yellow Arrow}
27. Remove the Double Connector Block {Pic 9, Red Arrow}, (Crank/Camshaft Position Sensor Harnesses) - 1 x 10mm bolt. I hung this harness over the engine grill, out of the way and loosely reinstalled bolt to support metal vacuum pipe {Pic 9, Green Arrow}. On reinstallation, torque bolt to 7-9 ft lbs (10-12Nm).
28. Remove the Triple Connector Block {Pic 10, Red Arrow} - 2 x 10mm bolts. Note that there is a Ground Wire secured by the right-hand bolt {Pic 8 & Pic 10, Orange Arrow}, make sure this is in place on reinstallation and then torque bolts to 7-9 ft lbs (10-12Nm).


29. Remove 1 x 12mm bolt holding the metal clip, which secures the 2 fuel pipes to the top, left-side of the plenum. This bolt has a lock washer installed. On reinstallation, torque to 8 ft lbs (11Nm). [3-57, Fig 69]
{Pic 11, Purple Arrow}
30. Remove 1 x 12mm bolt {Pic 10, Green Arrow} (bolt has a flange rather than a washer) and 1 x 12mm nut {Pic 10}, Dark Blue Arrow, securing the aluminium Breather Pipe Bracket {Pic 10, Yellow Arrow} and the 2 Fuel Pipes at the rear of the plenum and remove the bracket; the fuel pipes stay in place. The 12mm nut fits on a stud, and is also used to hold the main Engine Control Wiring Harness Tie Down {Pic 10, Purple Arrow}, in place at the rear of the plenum; this tie down should be secured around the YELLOW band on the wiring harness. Remove Breather Pipe Bracket. On reinstallation, torque the bolt to 8 ft lbs (11Nm). I could not find an accurate torque for reinstallation of this nut so used 13 ft lbs (18Nm).

Some more tips on this bit: The Breather Pipe Bracket is quite tricky to remove, but you can wiggle it out with a bit of care and ingenuity! Once removed, the 2 rubber pipes {Pic 13, Green Arrows} connected to it will have popped off (they are a tight push-fit only), and should still be attached to the rear of the engine. On reinstallation, connect this bracket to the right-hand hose first and then fit the bracket over the stud. You will need to use some sort of lubricant to reconnect the rubber hoses as there is no room at the back of the engine to get your hands in - I used WD40. Once the bracket is positioned and bolted down, I gently gripped the left-hand hose with a slip-joint/arc-joint wrench to lever it into place. This was by far the most frustrating part of the whole job - hence the long explanation!
31. Remove the EGR Temperature Sensor from the back right-side of the plenum [3-74, Fig 91]. The EGR Temp Sensor has a 14mm nut holding it in place and is quite well hidden at the back of the plenum. On reinstallation, torque this nut to 8 ft lbs (11Nm).
{Pic 5, Dark Blue Arrow}.


32. There are 6 locations where plenum support bolts need to be removed. On reinstallation, install all plenum bolts and plenum support bolts (except the vacuum pipe "B" bracket) loosely until everything is lined up. Tighten all plenum to intake manifold bolts, then tighten all plenum support bolts:
a. Remove 1 x 12mm bolt from rear left-hand stay; bolt has a lock washer. This is a difficult bolt to remove. On reinstallation, torque to 13 ft lbs (18Nm), if you can get to it!
{Pic 11, White Arrow}, [3-74, Fig 91, Item 11]
b. Remove 1 x 12mm bolt from front, left-hand stay. This bolt has a clip for the accelerator cable, which passes behind the plenum casting point supporting the left-hand retaining clip for metal Vacuum Pipe "A". On reinstallation, torque to 13 ft lbs (18Nm).
{Pic 11, Orange Arrow}
c. Unbolt and remove Vacuum Pipe "B" - 4 x 12mm bolt. This is the metal vacuum pipe attached to the front of the plenum. On reinstallation, torque all bolts to 14 ft lbs (19Nm).
{Pic 7, Light Blue Arrows}
d. Remove 3 x 12mm bolts from Power Steering Pump to Plenum, Top Brace, and remove brace. On reinstallation torque all bolts to 17 ft lbs (24Nm).
{Pic 2 & Pic 7}, Orange Arrows}
e. Remove 2 x 12mm bolts {Pic 6, Orange Arrows} and loosen 1 x 14mm bolt {Pic 6, White Arrow} from Power Steering Pump to Plenum, Side Brace. Rotate the brace to the right; towards the Power Steering Pump. On reinstallation, torque 12mm bolts to 17 ft lbs (24Nm) and the 14mm bolt to 33 ft lbs (44Nm).
f. Remove 1 x 12mm bolt from right-side middle stay; bolt has a lock washer. On reinstallation, torque to 13 ft lbs (18Nm).
{Pic 6, Purple Arrow}


33. Gather all the loose wiring of the main engine wiring harness together and tie it as far out of the way as you can - higher is better. Make sure there is nothing else in the way which is going to interfere with lifting off the plenum assembly - it is not too heavy but it is quite awkward.
34. In stages, loosen and then remove the 7 x 12mm bolts holding the intake manifold plenum assembly in position {Pic 12, Red Arrows}. There are 3 different lengths of bolts as follows:

Front of Engine
1 - Short (115mm)
2 - Medium (121mm); there is a wire cable tie attached to this bolt.
3 - Long (136mm)
4 - Medium (121mm)
5 - Long (136mm)
6 - Medium (121mm)
7 - Short (115mm); this bolt is tucked right down at the back of the engine.

Back of Engine
35. Lift off the plenum assembly, making sure nothing is snagged on it. Make sure you don't drop this onto the Intake Manifold as you may dent the manifold or plenum causing a vacuum leak on reassembly. Remove and discard the old gasket {Pic 12 & Pic 13 show disassembly complete}. On reassembly, remove the masking tape (if you have done any other component testing before reinstalling the plenum - See Paras 38 & 39) from the intake manifold and place a new Intake Manifold Plenum Gasket in position - it only fits one way round (make sure all the bolt holes are lined up - no sealant is required). Carefully lower the plenum into position and loosely insert all the plenum bolts. Loosely insert all the plenum stay bolts (except for the Vaccum Pipe "B" bracket) to make sure everything is lined up. In stages, torque the 7 x 12mm plenum bolts to 13 ft lbs (18Nm).

Note: It is difficult to line up this gasket with the plenum and manifold bolt holes. I used a length of 3mm wire, which I inserted in the front bolt hole and through the corresponding hole in the gasket. By lifting the plenum slightly, I was able to use the wire to jiggle the gasket into position.


36. Turn the plenum on its back and, in stages, remove the 2 x 10mm nuts/washers and 5 x 10mm bolt/washers. Lift off the old Induction Control Valve Assembly and discard. Remove and discard the 2 gaskets. On reassembly, position 2 new gaskets in place; they only fit on one way (no sealant of any kind is required). You will notice that the upper plenum has 2 locating pegs to more accurately position the two castings and prevent the Secondary Intake Gasket from moving - make sure these are properly engaged. After ensuring the 2 gaskets are in the correct position, loosely install the 2 x 10mm nuts and 5 x 10mm bolts. In stages, tighten the nuts and bolts to 6 ft lbs (9Nm).


37. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, work upward from Para 35.
*38. I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug cables as well as tested the compression and coil packs. If you want to do this also, which I would recommend, read on. Else, follow the procedure starting at Para 35 and working all the way up to Para 2 - then return to Para 62 for Final Checks.
*39. If you are going to continue, it is a wise idea to apply wide masking tape over the intake manifold to prevent foreign objects dropping into it.


*40. Remove the left and right-hand spark plug covers. There are 5 x 10mm bolts holding each in place. On reinstallation, torque all bolts to 2 ft lbs (3Nm). I added a small dot of Blue Loctite threadlock to each as they had been previously overtightened and the plastic covers were cracking. {Pic 13, Red Arrows}
*41. Remove the Spark Plug Cables from Cylinders 1,3 & 5. On reinstallation, the new cables are numbered so you can't get them in the wrong place.
*42. Remove the low-voltage wiring harness from the Ignition Coils on Cylinders 2,4 & 6.
*43. Disconnect the spark plug cables and remove 2 x 10mm bolts holding each coil in place. Remove the coils and set the them safely aside. I marked the spark plug cable connectors, wiring harness connectors and their corresponding coils with small dots of "Tippex" correction fluid - 1 dot for Cyl 2, 2 dots from Cyl 4 and nothing for Cyl 6. This was only really to make sure I got the coils back in the correct cylinders as the wiring harness is pretty much impossible to install incorrectly.
*44. Make sure there is no dirt/debris around the spark plugs holes and then remove all 6 spark plugs. It is a good idea to check them to see what condition the electrodes are in - mine were all pale-brown so I was pretty happy. This is also the point that I found out that the last mechanic to replace my plugs had not installed the platinum tip plugs that I had paid for!!! Discard old plugs.


*45. IMPORTANT: Make sure you remove the masking tape from the intake manifold prior to carrying out this procedure.
*46. You need to do this test as quickly as you can while the engine is still warm (remember Para 1..?). This is so that the piston rings, etc, are providing as much compression as possible.
*47. Following the instructions with your compression tester, carry out a compression test of each cylinder - I did a bit of research on the web to make sure I did all this properly. The test results will obviously depend on the age and condition of your engine, but as a rule the lowest result should be within 10% of the highest reading. My results were:

Cyl 2 - 193psi Cyl 1 - 195psi
Cyl 4 - 186psi Cyl 3 - 182psi
Cyl 6 - 193psi Cyl 5 - 181psi

Percentage Difference = ((195-181) / 195) x 100 = 7%

*48. [3-15, Fig 21] I used a remote starter button to crank the engine for testing. This is a very cheap and extremely useful item to have. To use connect one wire to the "S"-terminal on the starter solenoid (this is the terminal with the small connector clipped to it) and the other end to the positive terminal on the battery (you can use the "B"-terminal on the starter solenoid, but you may not have long enough leads on the starter button to reach over the engine). The big advantage of this item is that you do not have to use the ignition key to crank the engine, which means you can be looking directly at the compression gauge to count compression strokes, and the injectors are not pumping fuel into the cylinders. If you decided to crank the engine using the ignition key, you will need to disable the injectors by pulling the appropriate fuse/relay or disconnecting the injector wiring harness.
*49. On completion, re-cover the intake manifold and disconnect the remote starter button. If you removed any fuses/relays or disconnected the injector wiring harness, reinstall/reconnect them all now.
*50. Install 6 new spark plugs. Torque them all to 18 ft lbs (25Nm).

TEST IGNITION COILS [2-15, Figs 27 & 28]

*51. If you have a multi-meter, test the resistance of the primary and secondary ignition coils in each of the coil packs.
*52. The primary coil resistance is measured between the 2 small, low-voltage, terminals, which connect to the ignition coil wiring harness - the standard value is 0.69 - 0.85 ohms (All mine were 0.7 - 0.8 ohms)
*53. The secondary coil resistance is measured between the 2 large, high-voltage, terminals (spark plug and spark plug cable) - the standard value is 15.3 - 20.7 kilohms (15,300 - 20,700 ohms). All mine were 17.3-18.57kilohms.
*54. If any of these values are out of limits you may want to think about replacing them. Given that they are just under US$100 each, you might also want to take them to a Mitsubishi Dealer and get them tested again!
*55. Reinstall the ignition coils. Push them firmly onto the spark plugs for cylinders 2,4 & 6. Tighten each of the 10mm bolts to 7 ft lbs (10Nm).


*56. The spark plug cables can be tricky to change as they are clipped into a channel at the back of the engine, and even with the plenum removed they are difficult to get to. Have a good look at how they are clipped in place to the Valve Cover, and then feel around the back of the engine and unclip them as necessary - I think there were 3 or 4 clips, as well as the 3 in the valve cover. As you remove the old spark plug cables, make a note of the routing around the various components at the back of the engine - you need to install them via the same route, else they might not reach.
*57. The new cables will have the appropriate cylinder number marked on them at the spark plug end - BUT NOT THE IGNITION COIL END. You need to connect the cables as follows:
Cylinder 1 Spark Plug - Cylinder 4 Ignition Coil
Cylinder 3 Spark Plug - Cylinder 6 Ignition Coil
Cylinder 5 Spark Plug - Cylinder 2 Ignition Coil

Note: There is an error in the Chilton's Manual on Page 2-10, Fig 15. The spark plug cables are numbered incorrectly, use the information above (Para 57).

*58. Replace each cable one at a time and triple check you have connected them correctly and securely (the terminal to the ignition coil needs quite a bit of pressure to connect properly). Make sure the cables are routed sensibly and are clipped in place at all the accessible locations.
*59. Reconnect the Ignition Coil Wiring Harness.
*60. Reinstall the Spark Plug Covers - see Para 40.
*61. Reassemble everything by working upwards from Para 35.

Referenced Pictures

Pic02 Pic03 Pic04
Pic02 Pic03 Pic04
Pic05 Pic06 Pic07
Pic05 Pic06 Pic07
Pic08 Pic09 Pic10
Pic08 Pic09 Pic10
Pic11 Pic12 Pic13
Pic11 Pic12 Pic13


62. Before starting the engine, sit back for a few minutes and have a good hard think about what you have just done. Make sure you haven't got any bits left over. Work through these notes from start to finish to see if you have forgotten anything. When you are happy that everything is done - start the vehicle and have a good look and listen for anything that might be a problem. If everything checks out, take it for a test drive - and that should be it. Now sit back, congratulate yourself on a job well done and have a beer!

Lessons Learned:

63. Be methodical and apply common sense at every stage.
64. Be prepared for some awkward working positions especially when doing things at the back of the engine. This whole job took me about 10 hours, but I did spend probably 3 hours of this making notes and taking photos. However, at the end of the first day, I was seriously aching after spending all day leaning over the engine compartment.
65. Have a good think at every stage, especially on reassembly, and check that everything is put back together correctly. This applies particularly just before you reinstall the plenum assembly - if you have got the spark plug cables connected wrong.....!

Hope this helps some of you. If I have made any obvious blunders, let me know via the Trailtalk Mitsu Board - good luck!

Richard Myatt, January, 2004
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