Toyota Maintenance on 4x4Wire

Toyota Maintenance: Tacoma and 4Runner 30K Mile Service

By: Mark Griese - 12/2003

This table lists items found in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide for the four wheel drive models that were being serviced. You must consult the documentation that came with your vehicle to determine what is appropriate for your Toyota.

30,000 mile / 24 month maintenance items

REPLACE:

SERVICE:

INSPECT:

  • Drive belts
  • Ball joints and dust covers
  • Brake lines and hoses
  • Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs
  • Fuel lines, connections, and vapor vent system hoses
  • Fuel tank cap gasket
  • Steering gear box, linkage, and boots
  • Exhaust pipes and mountings

ADDITIONAL ITEMS FOR SPECIAL OPERATING CONDITIONS:

These items also apply to the 60K, 90K, and 120K maintenance intervals.

Also see SUPPLEMENTAL MAINTENANCE ITEMS


Engine Oil and Filter.

If the vehicle has been driven recently, allow the engine cool before beginning, at least enough that you can touch the end of the dipstick without getting burnt. Removal of the oil filter can be challenging if you want to change it without taking off the skid plates. By reaching through the fenderwell and catching the filter with a plastic bag, spillage can be minimized, but not totally eliminated. With a visit to the self-service car wash, any oil left on the skid plate can be easily cleaned off. While this method does help, I haven't found it to be any faster than removing the skid plates (with a 12mm socket and 3" extension). And considering the time spent removing the fender liner clips, I would rather use the opportunity of having the skid plates off to perform a more thorough inspection under the engine and front axle.

As shown in the kit photo, you will need a drain pan, a ratchet and 14mm socket, an oil filter wrench, the filter, a plastic bag, and a pair of pliers. You'll also need the oil of your choice and some kind of container to safely transport the used oil to a collection facility.

For the V6, begin by turning the driverside wheel left to expose the area in front of the suspension. Then, use the pliers to release the fender liner clips from inside the engine compartment, and pull back the liner to expose the filter. The oil filter wrench is used to loosen the filter's seal. Once the filter is turned about 1/4 revolution counterclockwise, it should be loose enough so it can be turned by hand. Then cover the filter with the plastic bag and continue turning until the filter comes off. Wipe the engine's gasket surface using a non-shedding rag. Using your finger, spread some new oil on the rubber seal on the new filter. Screw on the new filter by hand, turning it 3/4 revolutions clockwise past the point where it first contacts the engine block. Wipe off any excess oil on the engine block (underneath the filter), so it will be easier to check for any leaks later on when the engine is restarted.

For the I4, to reach the filter through the fenderwell, you will also turn the wheel to the driverside (left), but the filter is on the passenger side behind the front suspension. The filter can also be reached from under the vehicle without removing the skid plate. Because it is mounted straight up, expect it to be full of oil and easily spilled. The plastic bag might be handy for this one also. Before installing new filters that are mounted straight up like this one, pre-fill it with clean oil, your engine will appreciate it.

Once the new filter is installed, slide under the vehicle to the oil pan drain plug. Using the ratchet, loosen the drain plug until you are able to turn it by hand. Note the drain plug bolt uses a rubber coated washer to seal against the pan. Make sure this washer is not lost into the drain pan. While the oil drains into the pan, clean the bolt and washer for installation. After the draining is finished, install the bolt and washer. The bolt should be snug, but be careful to not over tighten it, which might damage the rubberized washer or strip the threads. The torque is listed as 20 ft. lbs.(240 inch lbs.), I prefer to use 150 inch lbs. Refill the engine with oil, while checking the dipstick for the proper level when adding the last quart. Start the engine and check for any leaks.


Oil Change Kit, Minus The Disposal Container Fenderwell Liner, Driverside V6 Removing The Fenderwell Liner Clips Oil Filter Exposed, Driverside V6

Fenderwell Liner, Passengerside I4 Preparing Oil Filter Drain Opening In Skid Plate Oil Pan Drain Plug

Engine Air Filter

The V6 air filter housing uses two spring back clips. Push them towards the front of the vehicle so you can flip open the lid. Push the filter down and forward to clear the rim of the housing, then lift it out. Once the filter is out, take a few seconds to inspect the foam rubber seal in the housing. It should be bonded securely around the opening. Install the new filter in the reverse order.

The I4 air filter housing uses four clips to hold the lid on. To remove the filter, pop the four clips, then disconnect the rubber hose from the metal tube mounted near the radiator. On this filter, the seal is incorporated into the new filter, so no additional inspection (as detailed above) is necessary before installing it.


V6 Clips V6 Lid V6 Filter Removing The V6 Filter

V6 Air Filter Housing V6 Air Filter Seal Installing The New Filter I4 Air Filter Housing

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